Room A – SCS Formulate 2017

Seminar List for Room A

09:30 - 09:50

Formulating for the US and Canadian Market- as easy as 1-2-3

The US currently has the most robust economy in the world. With the strength of the dollar, there are tempting profits to be made by selling products in the US and Canada, its closest trading partner.

This presentation will cover how to formulate products for the US market, especially considering California regulations, since California is the 6th largest economy in the world on its own. Canada is a close trading partner under NAFTA and offers almost seamless product interface, when planning in advance. With a little bit of knowledge, compliance is even easier to accomplish than meeting the EU requirements.


09:50 - 10:10

Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations – Active Beauty innovations from IMCD


10:10 - 10:30

Using NaDES extraction technology to create a natural, sustainable , high-performance active: Gatuline® Link n Lift

Natural, non-toxic and efficient at low temperatures, the NaDES technology is perfectly aligned with the Gattefossé strategy to provide high-performance sustainable ingredients with positive environmental impact.


  • Jamie Jones Personal Care Manager - Gattefossé UK Ltd
11:30 - 11:50

Trends in beauty and personal care, and the technologies that make them possible – volume 2

At SCS Formulate 2016 Surfachem introduced ‘Trends in beauty and personal care and the technologies that make them possible.’ Following considerable interest from attendees Surfachem intend to up the stakes in 2017 by creating a sequel.

This brand-new presentation builds on the ideas of the original by introducing a range of new trends have been identified as areas of future growth.

Surfachem’s presentation will focus on:

  • Market analysis of the personal care and cosmetics market
  • Insight into the most influential up and coming trends including intimate hygiene, active beauty and many more!
  • A formulation concept for each trend which showcases the latest and most innovative ingredient technologies available.
  • Technical description of the key ingredients within each concept and the features they contribute.

About Surfachem:

Surfachem Group, a 2M Holdings Ltd company, is an international speciality chemical distributor. Working in partnership with industry leading manufacturers, Surfachem deliver sustainable solutions to customers in over 65 countries by offering exceptional technical and logistical expertise.


11:50 - 12:10

Formulation of microbial safe products in a free from world

Microbial safety of cosmetic products is a challenge for formulators considering legal aspects as well as technical requirements and marketing trends. Public discussion additionally limits the number of accepted substances for microbial stabilization. In absence of new substances, which display in their main function to inhibit the development of microorganism, the cosmetic industry moves to multifunctional ingredients which either have a certain antimicrobial activity or are able to boost biocidal substances.

The presentation will illustrate market trends as well as the regulation challenges.


  • Jana Ruffert Product Manager Personal Care - Schülke and Mayr UK Ltd
12:10 - 12:30

Where next for Claim Substantiation Testing? Thinking beyond lines and wrinkles to meet the needs of future consumers

The consumer understanding of healthy, young looking skin has increased hugely over the last few years. With multiple lifestyle aspects, including sun, pollution, stress and diet to name a few,  understood to impact on how good someone’s skin looks, beauty shoppers now want much more from their products. The idea that lines and wrinkles are the major focus for good looking skin is now receding, with a more holistic view of skin emerging. This is also particularly true for consumers in non-European markets, such as the Far East region, where wrinkles have never been the primary concern with regards to healthy, youthful looking skin. In this talk, I will discuss methodologies that we are using for our international clients to provide information more directly related to how the consumer perceives their overall skin health. Imaging and other technologies that quantitate aspects such as skin radiance, translucency (of particular interest in China, Japan and Korea), evenness of skin tone and holistic visual measurements that link to consumer satisfaction of product performance, will be covered to show how we can think beyond a narrow view of good product performance.


14:00 - 14:20

The two-in-one effect: added values of specific emulsifiers and surfactants

Specific surface-active components can create benefits for formulators if used correctly.
A rather new class of such molecules are so-called "gemini surfactants". One of those amino acid based functional ingredients is water-soluble but at the same time improves hydrophobicity of hairs. A reduction of hair drying time by 30% or avoiding a loss of tensile strength during hair coloration, hair waving and bleaching treatments are just some of the benefits. Additional topics in this presentation will be foam stabilization, specific antimicrobial efficacy and preservation boosting.


  • Roman Ott Head of Application Laboratory Cosmetics - Rahn AG
14:20 - 14:40

Novel Approaches to Environmental Protection


14:40 - 15:00

Serdex and its supply chain in Madagascar

SERDEX, an affiliate of SEPPIC Group, and its supply chain in Madagascar. It has discovered the potential activities of Centella asiatica since the sixties. It is committed to an ethical business approach towards local suppliers, populations & institutions in Madagascar and for many years in the internationally recognized Ethical BioTrade Standards which fully reflects the ABS principles in the CBD & the Nagoya Protocol.

SERDEX is a pioneer in implementing proactively best practices on fair & equitable benefit sharing in Madagascar with its achievements in sustainable developement projects.


16:00 - 16:20

Thermolat® – Smart Warming from Symrise


16:20 - 16:40

-LUPALINE®: let you skin enjoy daily sun exposure while remaining protected.

Precious molecules from Wheat Germ oil combined with Lupin Oil bring high protection to skin cells DNA as well as skin cells membranes towards harmful effects of UV rays. It thus prevents cells functions and cells exchanges within the skin even in case of UV stress.

a-LUPALINE® helps to preserve skin elasticity, one of the most impacted skin mechanical property by sun exposure (solar elastosis).

The complementary anti-oxidant benefits makes a-LUPALINE® an excellent ingredient to prepare the skin to sun exposure, ideal to include in anti-aging skin care, SPF daily care or sun care.

Please come and visit us at booth 515 to discover the new data available on this ingredient.


16:40 - 17:00

Capitalizing on thickening, suspending and gelling properties of natural polymers to create innovative textures

Safic-Alcan has developed its own range of natural texturizing agents including xanthans, carrageenans, alginates, a guar, a carob and specific mixtures of those ingredients. In the conference, the technical characteristics of a mixture of carob and xanthan and of carrageenans will be discussed in order to better understand their potential thickening, suspending and gelling properties. Technical advices on how to formulate these ingredients in cosmetic products in order to obtain innovative textures will also be given.


09:30 - 09:50

Measuring the antioxidant capacity of vegan products and their ingredients with the ABEL-RAC-Vegan™ Antioxidant Test.


09:50 - 10:10

Solexyl, a novel cosmetic compound for UV protection

UV, and especially UV-B, are extremely noxious for the skin as they can cause DNA damage, inflammation, free radicals production, and cell death. In order to defend itself against these sun rays, skin developed protections such as melanin and urocanic acid. These natural chromophores are capable of absorbing UV and therefore to reduce their damage. However, while absorbing UV they also generate free radicals and may cause skin immuno-suppression.

Here we show how Solexyl, a nature-inspired cosmetic active, is capable of negating the UV-induced skin damage while also preventing the side effects of the skin endogenous protectors.


10:10 - 10:30

Targeting beauty trends with innovative solutions


11:30 - 11:50

Hair Necessities & Launches from Croda

Our hair is a powerful medium for expressing our individuality and, as a result, we often inadvertently torture it to achieve the perfect ‘look’. With everything from bleaching and colouring to even everyday combing and styling imparting damage onto the hair fibre, it is necessary to provide protection to ensure that a short-term look doesn’t have longer-term implications. Join Croda as we explore our latest innovations in hair care, exploring novel ways to protect and repair hair damage.


11:50 - 12:10

New insights into collagens: Fibre collagen I and physiologically active collagen XVIII

Fibroblasts synthesize numerous important dermal building blocks such as the large structuring components hyaluronic acid, elastic fibres and collagens. Especially the versatile collagens play a key role in skin physiology. Meanwhile, consumers are well familiar with the term “collagen” that has positive connotations, and they realised that there is not one kind of collagen in the skin only.

Due to its high share in the dermis, collagen I takes on a special position. Stimulating the synthesis can contribute to an increase of firmness and help to slow down skin aging. Dermagenist™ supports each of the four major steps in the synthesis of collagen I, including both intra- and extracellular processes. The final formation stage involves the enzyme LOXL1, responsible of the assembly of precursor molecules to long fibres. BASF Beauty Creations found out that the release of LOXL1 is impacted by an epigenetic mechanism. Dermagenist™, a Cosmos-approved marjoram extract rich in vicenin and luteolin-7-0-glucuronide, strongly stimulates the investigated synthesis steps. As result, Dermagenist™ increases skin density as well as skin firmness.

Besides collagens that play a pure mechanical role, there are also forms that additionally participate in physiological processes. Among them, collagen XVIII is unique: it is the only collagenous proteoglycan with biological activity that is present in all skin layers. BASF Beauty Creations discovered that Collagen XVIII is decreasing with age. Collalift™18 stimulates the production of this specific substance, both in the dermal-epidermal junction and in the basement membrane of adipocytes. Clinical studies demonstrated an increase of skin elasticity, an improvement of the skin homogeneity and a reduction of wrinkles. Collalift™18 is a Cosmos-approved extract from the bark of African Mahogany, sourced in Burkina Faso under monitored conditions.


12:10 - 12:30

Beauty Evolution-Staying ahead of Curve

Navigating the beauty section in your favorite store or clicking through the latest product launches is a daunting task as a consumer.  Today’s beauty offering is huge and capturing the consumer is a difficult task.  We will explore the next generation technologies available and in development that will shape the future of beauty.


14:30 - 14:50

Eosidin™: Controlling atopic-prone skin conditions caused by indoor pollution

Your home is surrounded by indoor pollution which triggers irritation process and leads to atopic-prone skin conditions. People are subjected to two to five times more contaminants indoor than outdoor.

Eosidin™ is the first active ingredient targeting indoor pollution, and tackling skin immuno-modulation to avoid atopic-prone skin conditions and hypersensitivity. Eosidin™ is a well characterized extract of unripe citrus unshiu, coming from the wonderful and protected reserve of Jeju Island in Korea.


14:50 - 15:10

Wellness For Beauty: Advancing the Story

Wellness has grown to become a synonym of beauty, as beauty buyers embrace wellness. Consumers understand that skin appearance is also impacted by exposure to daily environment and various aspects of modern lifestyles.  Increasing levels of physical activity, reducing stress levels, minimising the impact of pollution and free radicals, looking after personal wellbeing are considered of vital steps for an effective beauty routine.

The concept of looking and feeling good is drawing closer: notions of de-stress and recharge, creating energy through the experience of an indulging face, body and hair care rituals. Following the successful launch of the "Looking Good Feeling Great" Creative Concept at in-cosmetics Global 2017, Brenntag are expanding the narrative of the Wellness for Beauty story and are developing new formulations to be unveiled at SCS Formulate.

More information on the formulations under the Creative Concept can be found on


15:10 - 15:30

Navigating Naturals

Let’s face it: Natural is all the rage. Whether it’s what we eat, what we put on our bodies or what we use in our homes, people everywhere are making a choice to go natural.

But as formulators how can we meet expected natural and ethical regulations ensuring our personal care products are at the level of ‘natural’ that consumers expect? And what certifications are out there?

As part of the Cornelius Inspire programme, Trevor Barker will present ‘Navigating Naturals’ – a guide to several certification bodies including Cosmos, ISO Natural Standard, Halal, Vegan, Nordic Swan, Fair Trade; RSPO and Palm Free.


  • Trevor Barker Technical Business Development Manager - Cornelius Group Plc