Inspire Seminars

This presentation will review cold-process combinations of monoalkanolamides with amphoterics, pearl concentrates, alkyl polyglucosides with a high Krafft point sulfosuccinate, and more. The performance of these materials will be explored, demonstrating their usefulness in reducing processing time and cost.

JRS UK are excited to present their latest developments in water-free formulating.  Over the last few years we have been developing a range of novel technologies to offer the consumer innovative new water-free formats with performance that matches that of their water-containing counterparts.

JRS’s “Solidification” technology was shortlisted for the Laura Marshall Award in 2023. We have continued to build on this success and have seen a great deal of interest in our Shampoo Bars created from liquid shampoo concentrates. This technology also extends to conditioners, emulsions and individual raw materials- basically, if you want to create a solid powder from a liquid- try “Solidification”.

Our latest innovation is a fast dissolving paper using cellulose and alginates to create good quality single use “Shampoo Paper”.

Our “Conditioner Tablets” combine our “Solidification” technology with JRS’s long history of tabletting expertise, resulting in a fast dissolving tablet that performs as well as a conventional conditioner.

Finally, Vivastar CS Instant Powder’s highly absorbent and swelling properties help create a really pleasing Cleansing Powder which thickens to a luxuriant liquid cleanser on contact with water.

Univar Solutions, a global leading chemical distributor, will introduce what customers should expect from a company on their sustainable commitments, the regulatory framework in Europe, and how to be part of the solution by explaining and calculating the Product Carbon Footprint of an ingredient.

Presentation of Ashland’s natured derived technologies to prevent heat damage during hairstyling routine and repair hair.

Heat damage occurs during hair styling when using high-temperature devices like flat irons, blow dryers and curl irons. Although synthetic polymers are effective against heat damage, they compromise the biodegradability of formulations. Consumers seek sustainable yet high-performing products for curling or straightening their hair. We will introduce our nature-derived biopolymer designed to repair hair damage and provide heat protection during styling.

The wait is over! With the new BergaCare FG Gel we are finally presenting an innovative and efficient solution to naturally thicken transparent oil formulations for leave-on and rinse-off products. Due to its natural thixotropic behavior, BergaCare FG Gel is explicitly suitable for transforming textures from fluid to solid gels and back. Consequently, a variety of trending and playful skin and hair care concepts with different viscosities can be realized. The good suspending properties for pigments and solids complete the broad range of choices to formulate with BergaCare FG Gel.

Promoting skin's self-sufficiency to reverse ageing and improve skin health... Minimal effort for maximum benefits!

Join IMCD to discuss the key elements within this trend and how to optimise the future of skincare.

Surfachem will be exploring innovative strategies for creating cost-efficient processes in personal care formulations. Abbie Charles, Technical Development Manager, and Charlie Munday, Account Manager at Surfachem will be highlighting the pivotal role of technology and multi-functional ingredients in transforming formulation design.

We will discuss new technology launches that enable manufacturers to achieve luxurious textures and performance while maintaining cost efficiency. Attendees will learn about new ingredient launches that offer multi-functional benefits, simplifying supply chains and reducing raw material needs.

With a focus on technology and innovation, we will demonstrate how Surfachem leverages these advancements to meet consumer demands and drive industry growth. Join us to discover how to craft future-ready formulations that align with economic and environmental goals, setting new standards for excellence in personal care products.

Multi-phase personal care products have been trendy for decades. Usually triphasic formulations include silicone, glycol or petroleum-based ingredients and the way to formulate them is based on the exclusion of solubility. We will present an innovative way to formulate multi-phase cosmetics in liquid form based on Winsor III microemulsions. Our triphasic microemulsions are composed of ingredients that are carefully selected from a range of raw materials that have an ISO 16128 index higher than 0.90. The intrinsic properties of these microemulsions support a higher sensory profile, with superior performance and stability than traditional formulations.

The changes seen in the skin as we age are accelerated by the menopause. Declining oestrogen levels are known to impact the biophysical properties of the skin and to influence extracellular matrix structure and function, barrier function and skin reactivity. Studies have described the histological changes and the altered biophysical properties of pre and post menopausal skin. In this talk, we will present data linking clinical and biophysical properties of the skin to changes in gene expression and protein expression sampled in vivo using innovative methodologies. Using qPCR and proteomics in clinical studies allows a deeper understanding of the changes occurring in the skin, opening up new targets for supporting healthy skin ageing and new ways of assessing potential interventions in vivo that can target specific skin processes and provide consumers with better solutions for healthy skin as they age.

Combining the words "no" and "toxins," Notox is all about embracing natural beauty, avoiding harmful ingredients, and adopting a minimalist skincare routine.
With 10.4 million views on TikTok, #Notox is the shift towards achieving a youthful look without the use of needles or surgery.
People are swapping wrinkle-relaxing injectables for treatments promising longevity. To opt for facial alternatives to wrinkle-relaxing injections like botox for a youthful complexion.
900 000 botulinum toxin injections are carried out in the UK each year.
The non-surgical skin tightening market size is estimated to increase by over $500 million between 2023 to 2027.

Modern consumers are evolving from end-users to change agents driving product innovations by making their voices heard.

Planet health is the most important issue for consumers worldwide. According to the 2023 Innova Lifestyle & Attitudes Survey, 36% of consumers globally agree that climate change is a top concern.  In addition, 34% say that they would like to see companies help protect nature, believing that brands have a role to play.

In this growing space, biotechnology and upcycling are pivotal strategies to offer a “guilt-free” beauty experience to conscious consumers while delivering powerful performance.

Mastering these techniques, CP Kelco is the right partner to support manufacturers in their sustainable beauty journey. Come and learn our sustainability-first approach, and discover how we make products on purpose.

Structure® Silk is Nouryon's latest bio-based and readily biodegradable multifunctional rheology modifier, texturizer and film-former for skin care, hair care, and hair styling emulsions and aqueous formulations. It is cold water processible and has unique performance attributes whereby it builds viscosity while creating a differentiated texture. The result is a bright and glossy formulation with a rich and cushioned feel. It provides stiffness, and high humidity resistance ideal for hair styling gels and control creams.

According to psychologist Nancy Etcoff, identification of beauty is intuitive, whereas definition of beauty is subjective, mutable, and difficult to formulate into words.

As the cornerstones of beauty include smooth, healthy-looking skin, what comprises desirable skin is similarly difficult to define. Despite the diverse cultural backgrounds of consumers from various geographic regions, the pursuit of skin integrity/ skin quality remains a shared objective. TS-Biotech’s skin integrity care solution focuses on the overall promotion of skin health and wellness，which improves 3 fundamental attributes contributing to skin quality : visible, mechanical, and topographical.

As spending power becomes more restricted consumers are demanding more from their cosmetics. They want lower prices, but they still want superior performance. Alongside this there is also a conscious consumer need for more environmentally friendly products that consume less water in the shower, so multifunctional products are becoming important. By careful combination of surfactants and conditioning agents it’s possible to develop formulations with high foaming characteristics, good conditioning and still maintain a low price point. We will present Pearly There Hair and Body Cleanser – a multifunctional product that can be used as a 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner and a body wash – allowing consumers to only turn on the shower once to rinse and therefore reduce their hot water consumption. We will show how the inclusion of two conditioning agents reduces the combing force on hair, reduces static and improves hair alignment. Also, we will show how the combination of sulfate-free surfactants provides a voluminous foam profile and improved deposition of conditioning actives. Finally, we will present rheology data to show that the multifunctional conditioning active can also suspend the pearlizing agent and improve formulation appearance and stability.

As brands move to natural ingredients and sustainable formulas, their formulators identified a new gap in their ingredient portfolio: natural solubilizers. Traditional solubilizers are effective but petrochemical-derived and ethoxylated, or naturally-derived, but not very effective. In some cases, the solubilizers that are effective cause preservation ingredients to lose efficacy.

Inolex designed a novel 100% natural polyglyceryl ester (PGE) surfactant, LexSolv™ Essential,  exhibiting fast micellar dynamics, that delivers solubilization without compromising solute activity, including preservation efficacy. PGEs are versatile and sustainable. They are 100% natural when prepared from plant-based glycerin and fatty acids, with outstanding safety and toxicological profiles.

To transition our products toward greater naturality, a starch-supported copolymer has been developed. The hybrid polymer brings the performance of synthetic rheology modifiers and combines it with the sustainability of the natural component. The novel ingredient has been formulated in sulfate, and sulfate-free chassis demonstrating viscoelastic behaviour equivalent to synthetic thickeners. It exhibits sustainable characteristics meeting the inherent biodegradability threshold in an OECD 301B biodegradation test and its manufacturing process addresses all 12 principles of Green Chemistry. This product represents an evolution in our rheology modifier portfolio and solidifies our commitment to a sustainable future.

Expectations for modern SPF formulations extend beyond performance, such as providing a reliable sun protection factor (SPF).
Ecological considerations, like aquatic toxicity and the potential for endocrine disruption, contribute to the so-called "eco-profiling" of formulation components.
The EU microplastic regulation also impacts the selection of ingredients. Additionally, the skincare product must remain elegant in application.

In this presentation, we introduce a new in-vivo tested SPF 50 face cream and explain the rationale behind the choice of specific components.
Key aspects include photo-stable and non-critical UV filters, physical SPF maximization, the selection of emollients, an eco-friendly formula, a multi-level protection strategy, and a PEG- and silicone-free composition.

Join Marta Lazaro from Symrise, who will be presenting SymFeel Quat Green®, introducing a game-changing new ingredient, from upcycled and renewable feedstock material – molasses of white beetroot from the sugar industry.

By leveraging green chemical synthesis techniques and sustainable sourcing, Symrise has succeeded in creating a 100% natural derived and readily biodegradable replacer for PQ-7 and 10 while upholding the high-performance standards expected in hair care formulations.

Introducing Mibelle Biochemistry’s Pioneering Eye Care Ingredient

Discover the future of skincare with our new ingredient, the all-in-one solution for your undereye concerns. Based on organic mild apple mint extract, this ingredient:

• Brightens the eye contour by inhibiting melanin formation
• Reduces eye bag volume through enhanced lymphatic vessel formation
• Strengthens the vascular system and minimizes blood vessel leakage

Join our seminar and discover how this unique ingredient can transform your eye care products, adding a new dimension to their effectiveness.

Multifunctionality offers countless benefits to personal care formulations for many reasons; we’ll be focusing on 2 key aspects– efficacy and functionality.

We’ll cover two active trends that have a multi-faceted impact on the skin – treating the Skin Microbiome and Barrier Repair – whilst also looking at formulation flexibility. In particular, we’ll be assessing the versatility of a surfactant that can be used as a broadly compatible emulsifier, as well as foam-booster, cleanser, and wetting agent.

Consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of their purchases. They are looking for personal care solutions that don't compromise on performance while being more natural and eco-friendlier. The Natural Origin Index (NOI) is an objective way to measure the naturality of ingredients and biodegradability is an important aspect to measure the impact on the environment. Nouryon has a range of fully natural and readily biodegradable solutions that can be used in skin- hair- and sun-care formulations.

Following a study into drought and disease resistance in plants, 2,3 Butanediol was identified as a significant factor in both attributes. This discovery led to the use of 2,3 butanediol as a cosmetic ingredient, bringing effective moisturisation and humectancy to formulations, and supporting effective preservation. Produced commercially using a natural fermentation process, this versatile substance is shown to give superior performance to synthetic analogues commonly used in cosmetics, while having reduced environmental impact. This presentation will detail the production, use and benefits of 2,3 Butanediol, relative to more commonly used materials.

“EverBond™ is a naturally derived bond-building ingredient that works to repair oxidatively damaged disulfide bonds and strengthen the keratin integrity of the hair fibre. A characteristic of healthy hair is a high level of intact, disulfide bonds which gives the hair its structure and strength. When hair colour, shape or style is modified, either through the chemical bleaching process, relaxing or perming, these bonds can weaken or are broken. This oxidative process results in cysteic acid formation within the hair and weakens the hair fibre making it more prone to breakage. This type of damage is traditionally believed to be irreversible and creates a need for an ingredient that penetrates into the cortex to repair these broken bonds and increase keratin integrity. EverBond creates a reducing environment to reverse this oxidative process, allowing the disulfide bonds to reform. The reformation of these disulfide bonds in turn strengthens the hair protein, making the hair stronger and more resistant to breakage. The alpha keratin is strengthened, allowing hair to be more elastic when force is applied.

Verdant have developed methods for delivering desirable aesthetics and sensorial properties to personal care formulations, whilst also boosting functionality and performance. These include: (1) MACKPEARL® Natural Pearliser range: liquid pearling agents designed for easy dispersibility to produce a pearled silky shine in formulations; (2) MACKSPEC® OCC range: fully formulated mild products with excellent sensorial and foaming properties that bring long-lasting hydration and moisturisation through the incorporation of high levels of natural oil; and (3) MACKSPEC® emulsifying and thickening polymer emollients that enhance stability and modify rheology in creams and gels for skin care applications and beyond.

The global suncare market is one of the fastest growing in personal care. Alzo International offers a variety of ingredients for suncare formulations.  This includes a 100% naturally derived and biodegradable film former.   In addition, Alzo International offers many naturally-derived ingredients for suncare to improve aesthetics, sunscreen solubility and stability.

Discover with me the untapped potential of signaling Ceramides and Sphingolipids!

While Ceramides are well known for their barrier effect, their capabilities extend far beyond. Join me as I delve into the fascinating world of these signaling molecules, which influence cellular processes like immunomodulation, DNA protection and dermal scaffold strengthening

As consumers are increasingly aware of the dangers of excessive sun exposure, and become more demanding of broad spectrum photoprotection, brands are challenged with building UV protection into Personal Care offerings -driving the trend for layering Sun Care across the different cosmetic segments. This ‘Sunnification’ trend blurs the lines between traditional Sun Care, Skin Care and Make-up.

The future of Sun Care merges technology and ecology, offering protection and well-being through formulas respectful of every skin type, consumer need and our planet.

Discover the BASF solutions for seamlessly weaving photoprotection into your daily ritual for an invisible shield against the ever-present sun​. Beyond UV Filters!

This session will cover 4x AI-powered tools from Gravel AI:
• Contract Manufacturer Intelligence - uncover OEMs used by fast growing brands.
• INCI List Scanner - enter an INCI list to find exact matches or similar products in the market.
• Product Name Keyword Analyser - uncover latest trends based on product name keywords.
• Ingredient Trends - track fast growing or fast declining ingredients based on ingredient type, applications and marketing claims.

WELLBEING is the mega trend but how can skin care products make us feel positive about ourselves? Whilst it is more obvious for make-up, some active ingredients for skin care can make it happen. 💆‍♀️

“From cell-to-cell interactions to holistic wellbeing" will be presented by Croda’s Carola Schwaiberger at the SCS Formulate tradeshow in Coventry, UK on Nov. 13 at 11:30 am. A presentation not to be missed!

Geroscience showed that by targeting specific biological hallmarks, longevity extension is possible. Despite numerous studies, solutions are still needed to extend skin longevity. The objective here is to fill this gap and develop a natural active able to extend skin healthspan. Schisandrins are lignans acting on longevity hallmarks. An active enriched in these was developed from Schisandra chinensis berries. In vitro results showed that Schisandra extract (SchE) significantly increases longevity genes expression, autophagy and mitochondrial markers. In stressed 3D models, SchE restores skin barrier, reduces oxidation and inflammation. Clinically vs. placebo on multi-ethnic panels, SchE significantly increases skin microcirculation, elasticity and brightness and prevents wrinkles. As longevity is the result of the optimal functioning of interconnected biological activities, thanks to its multi-action on these, SchE is a potent solution to extend skin healthspan for a timeless beauty.

Promoting skin’s self-sufficiency to reverse ageing and improve skin health… Minimal effort for maximum benefits!

Join IMCD to discuss the key elements within this trend and how to optimise the future of skincare.

Insights and research on the skin microbiome. Advances, limitations of pre, pro, postbiotics formulations. Dos and don'ts in skincare.

Sequential, The Skin Microbiome Testing Co^TM. is the industry leader in microbiome testing, claims substantiation and support for brands formulating products for skin, scalp, intimate care and oral care. Recognised as the most significant testing solution in the industry, Sequential offers a full end-to-end platform from study design, recruitment and testing, to analysis, and support on formulation development and certification. Sequential’s testing is exclusively managed in-house and with human clinical subjects, in vivo.

Make-up is “skinifying” at the same time skin-care is “make-upifying”. There are strong winds fuelling these trends as consumers are demanding more and more functionality from the products they are choosing to purchase, as they want to buy less, consume less, create less waste. Equally the demand for tic-tockable, instragram-able skin care products with “instant results” is increasing.

In this presentation we’ll talk about Kobo’s pigment and powder technologies that can be used to achieve these effects and show concept formulas.

We will present a machine learning method to directionally predict/screen the sensory performance based on analytical measurements of novel product formulations. Our method aims to reduce the burden on costly sensory panel studies and streamline the new product development cycle by using appropriate product characterisation data. We demonstrate the effectiveness of our method on an industry dataset and show that it can achieve high accuracy and reliability in benchmarking new product formulations from a sensory perception perspective.

BotaniDesign™ - Petrolatum alternative - Derived from nature

In the ever-evolving landscape of personal care, Cargill Beauty proudly introduces BotaniDesign™—a groundbreaking emollient that transcends industry standards. This revolutionary product serves as a derived natural and plant-based alternative to conventional petroleum jelly, embodying a commitment to sustainability, efficacy, and innovation.

BotaniDesign™ stands apart as a 100% derived natural and readily biodegradable emollient. In a world increasingly focused on eco-conscious choices, this product aligns seamlessly with the growing demand for sustainable beauty solutions.

As a vegetable-based drop-in replacement for petrolatum, BotaniDesign™ facilitates a 1:1 transition from petro-based products in emulsion formulations. This adaptability ensures a smooth transition for manufacturers seeking more sustainable alternatives without compromising performance.

Consumer study show that BotaniDesign™  performed comparably  to white petrolatum across many categories. Subjects with positive responses found BotaniDesign™ to have similar effects during application and post-application including:

Ease of spread and absorbed into their skin as application

Smoothness and moisturization effects at the 2-minute post-application

Smoothness and moisturization effects after 6 hours of wear

Tanning plus! Longer duration! Tanbest® DHA Premium delivers a deeper, more consistent tan while protecting your skin with mysterious oriental plant Poria Cocos. Experience enhanced tanning and lasting results.

Emollients play a pivotal role in cosmetic formulations, imparting specific characteristics, performances, and a sensory appeal to the final product, thereby contributing to the creation of sophisticated textures. ROELMI HPC proudly introduces the EMotion® line, a range of sustainable emollients developed through upcycling and green chemistry processes. As a result of the company’s extensive know-how in natural ingredient development, a thorough analysis of the technical, performance, and sensory profiles of each emollient has been conducted. This approach aims to provide a comprehensive guide to formulators and facilitate the creation of unique and customized sensory experiences.

The trend in hair care towards leave on conditioning products is bringing new opportunities for high performance and differentiated claims. Products from pump sprays to hair oils and serums provide exceptional delivery of hair conditioning without needing to be washed off.

Ingredients from both smart silicones and naturally derived feedstocks offer enhanced performance in terms of gloss, shine, anti-frizz and hydrophobicity building repair.

The presentation will cover the trending claims and the ingredient solutions to meet them.

Tiffany and Denise will present our microplastics alternative technology called DAINTech.

DAINTech formulations demonstrate enhanced gel product stability and coating properties. We will also introduce the Edinburgh Complex Fluids Partnership which is the organisation that facilitates follow-up conversations and collaborative projects involving DAINTech.

Shea is one of the most widely used natural emollients in skin care and is renowned for being kind to the skin and the planet. Shea trees grow wild in sub-Saharan Africa, helping to protect against climate change, and millions of women rely on the seasonal collection and sale of shea kernels to supplement their income and provide for their family needs.

However, not all shea-based emollients are created equal, and formulators can face several challenges when using shea butter in cosmetic applications. One of the key issues is its tendency to crystallize, which can lead to a grainy texture in finished products, requiring careful control of the melting and cooling process. And while shea butter is highly moisturizing, it can feel greasy or heavy on the skin, making it difficult to achieve the light, silky, silicone-like textures required for premium face products.

In this presentation, we explore how optimizing the physical and sensory characteristics of shea butter allows increased functional use across all cosmetic applications, including an interesterified variant with high thermal stability, an energy-saving liquid version that enables clear, sprayable formulations, and a shea-based ester offering the same functional and sensory properties as dimethicone. All the shea variants described are directly sourced from the women's groups engaged in the AAK Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing program in West Africa. They are also climate-compensated, which means product emissions have been calculated and offset with Gold Standard and Fairtrade carbon credits generated from an energy-saving cookstove project in Burkina Faso. These products offer unparalleled benefits regarding sustainability credentials and functionality, making them the ideal choice for eco-conscious, ethically sourced, high-performance cosmetic products.