15 November Room A Seminars

9:30 am - 9:50 am

Natural Surfactant Systems – how to formulate them

The current challenge in formulating natural surfactant systems is not to find natural surfactants. It is more the question how to thicken those surfactant combinations, achieving a good foaming and leaving a nice sensory on skin and hair.


  • Roman Ott Head of Application Laboratory - RAHN
9:50 am - 10:10 am

Skin cleansing solutions: Moisture retention that consumers can feel

Addressing the consumer need for cleansers that don’t dry out skin, Softhance™ MR conditioning agent is a nature-derived, biodegradable ingredient that deposits itself on the skin from rinse-off cleansing systems, enabling skin moisture retention and leaving consumer-perceivable skin softness.  Consumer studies have shown that Softhance™ MR improves foam and leaves skin feeling perceivably softer and moisturized even after rinse-off.  Broad surfactant compatibility enables creation of sulfate-free or anionic surfactant-based hand, face or body washes and scrubs that are both clear and conditioning.  Softhance™ MR has a high nature-derived content of 82% and is vegan-suitable, non-GMO, and non-microplastic.

Learn more about Softhance™ MR conditioning agent in this presentation, which will include data, formulation tips and inspiring formulations that highlight two additional sustainable innovations, Liftyl™ biofunctional and Phyteq™ Raspberry i multifunctional.  Liftyl™ is a premium rosewood extract from upcycled wood chips for face sculpting that can redraw the skin contours and smooth out wrinkles, leaving the skin naturally rejuvenated with a bouncy glow.  Phyteq™ Raspberry I is a multifunctional preservative booster inspired by nature that acts as preservative potentiator to protect a cosmetic formulation against spoilage while also providing antioxidant and free radical scavenging properties that help to retain the elasticity of the skin.


  • Sylvain Lataste EMEA Technical Services Manager Personal Care - R&D - Ashland
10:10 am - 10:30 am

Testing to Support Skin Microbiome Safe/Friendly Claims for Cosmetic Products

Human skin is a complex organ which performs several important functions, many of which are essential for human health and homeostasis. The skin is also colonised by diverse populations of microorganisms known as the skin microbiome or more properly as the skin microbiota. The role of the microbiota in skin health is still an emerging area of scientific investigation, however it is known to play an important role in many vital physiological functions. An imbalance in the skin microbiota know as dysbiosis is associated with several human diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.

 Many topically applied cosmetic products contain ingredients such as preservatives and surfactants with the potential to alter the composition and function of the skin microbiota potentially leading to dysbiosis. Here at Melbec Microbiology we offer a sensible step wise testing approach to evaluate the impact of cosmetic ingredients and products on the skin microbiota. We are also looking to the future of skin microbiome testing, specifically in the areas of metatranscriptomics and metabolomics to not only evaluate the composition of the skin microbiota but also its function.


11:30 am - 11:50 am

Trends in the Botanicals Market and How Extracts Can Benefit Your Formulation

Rebecca will give an overview of the trends in the botanical market for 2024 and beyond, plus how Croda is set up to support customers’ new product development. Come along to find out more about the trend topics and how these are likely to impact the market next year!

Key Takeaways: Trends in the botanical market and how Croda can support you in developing formulations using our botanical extracts.


11:50 am - 12:10 pm

CutiFine CLR – Refining skin with focus on conspicuous skin pores

Refining the appearance of pores: a multifaceted challenge
Results from a recent large study by Revieve Oy show: the number 3 skin concern for women is visibility of pores. The cosmetic industry seems not to have been able to supply the consumer with products which are effective enough to tackle this concern. Hence, there is a demand for active ingredients which can act at the core of those biological processes in the skin that lead to conspicuous pores.
There are two aspects to skin pores which dictate how conspicuous they are and how much of a concern they become. Large pores are more visible. The contrast between the color of the pores and the surrounding skin is another important factor, however.
CLR has developed CutiFine CLR™ which was designed to address all important cell biological features which make pores more conspicuous.
CutiFine CLR™ acts on sebum production, barrier function, inflammation, free radicals, glycation, protein carbonylation, keratinocyte hyperproliferation and dermal structure. In an in vivo study, CutiFine CLR™ showed its efficacy on visibility of skin pores, both as measured with AEVA-HE technology and, even more importantly, in the perception of the volunteers who took part in the study.

Key Takeaways:
CutiFine CLR™ is the first ingredient which addresses all cell biological processes, which contribute to skin pores becoming more conspicuous.
Sustainably produced from extractions of cowherb and the fruit pulp of baobab.
Reduces the size of pores without having astringent activity.
Acts on multiple pathways which increase color contrast between pores and skin.


  • Stephan Telge International Technical Sales Manager - Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
12:10 pm - 12:30 pm

LignoBase: the novel upcycled biopolymer with multi-protective properties


2:30 pm - 2:50 pm

No Nano, Tinted and Transparent Effect Mineral UV Filters: From broad spectrum protection to minimal environmental impact

Specialized in the development of balanced size mineral filters for sun care, skin care and color cosmetic products, ADP Cosmetics will present their latest generation of ingredients and their broad-spectrum protection with the minimum environmental impact on oceans and coral reefs.

Do you still think that formulating sunscreens with a low concentration of non-nano mineral filters and without whitening effect is impossible? ADP Cosmetics presents its proposal of coloured and transparent effect filters that makes this possible, including protection in the broad spectrum, without an environmental impact.


2:50 pm - 3:10 pm

The Green Ferment Tech

Fermentation is the oldest form of Biotechnology. We are ferment pioneers and create unique bio-ferments which are then usually combined with certain synergistic ingredients to produce very efficacious cosmetic actives. Our ferment technology brings differentiated solutions to enhance functional performance and deliver aesthetic benefits in both skincare and haircare.


3:10 pm - 3:30 pm

100% natural, multifunctional bioactives for sustainable, clean and highly efficacious skin care

This presentation will throw light upon the current trends in the Beauty and Personal Care (B&PC) Industry with a prime focus on Skin Care. The presentation will explain the scientific importance of the unique, patented and multifunctional bioactives produced exclusively by bitop AG. These bioactives are stress protection molecules also known as ‘Extremolytes’ and have a clinically proven efficacy.

bitop offers 100% natural, multifunctional bioactives for sustainable, clean and highly efficacious skin care.


  • Disha Patel Senior Manager – Technical Sales and Marketing - bitop AG