14 November Room C Seminars

9:30 am - 9:50 am

Formulating from Plant-Based Sources 101

How the chemistry of natural materials affects the function & feel of your ingredients. Understanding how parameters such as polarity, functional groups, chain length & branching affect performance will help to make choosing the right naturally derived material easy!


9:50 am - 10:10 am

The Benefits of Upcycled Waxes: A Sustainable Approach


10:10 am - 10:30 am

Natural active ingredient, FILL Oléoactif® supports healing ability to address age signs: from stem cells mobilization to dermal remodelling and wrinkle repair for an ultimate filler effect

To internally combat the effects of aging and fill in depleted tissue, the skin must continually regenerate and renew itself. Skin regeneration spontaneously occurs during the healing process, but the associated biological mechanisms are disrupted with age. The objective of this study was to evaluate the ability of a natural extract of myrtle and olive leaves to activate the natural healing pathways during aging by RT-qPCR and protein immunolabelling methods. Highly concentrated in antioxidant and repairing Phytoside™ (myricitrin, oleuropein), this Oléo-éco-extract is the first of its kind. The study showed that, when applied to the skin, this bio-inspired ingredient modulates innovative key genes and proteins of cell defense, stem cells mobilization, epidermal regeneration, and dermal remodeling. As a result, age marks are counter-balanced, and the skin regains a younger architecture. FILL Oléoactif® clinically showed a high ability to fill out wrinkles and smooth the skin for a Fill-good look!
It is China compliant, COSMOS-certified, 100% natural origin (ISO16128) and vegan-compatible.


11:30 am - 11:50 am

Perfect Skin Glow, Pillar of Total Well Being

Total wellbeing, the right balance between physical-social & mental wellness, is under extensive quest.

A perfect skin glow, combining hydration, firmness and brightness, is key to accomplish total wellness.

Using performing actives, the Beauty Industry can offer effective skincare to protect against environmental stresses, i.e. the exposome, and combat skin imperfections and skin aging processes.

Sytheon is a leading supplier of innovative, highly standardized and performing active ingredients helping to reach such goals.

We present two approaches to offer Total Skin-Care products:

  • The first path is natural, minimalist but holistic. Synastol®TC, a highly standardized extract from chebula fruit known as Haritaki the king of Ayurvedic medicine, shows hydrating, brightening and anti-wrinkles effects;
  • Then a highly integrative scheme combines three of our best performing molecules with complementary activities: hydration(Hydra Synol®DOI, Isosorbide dicaprylate); anti-aging (Synoxyl®AZ, Acetyl Zingerone) and; brightening (Synovea®HR, HexylResorcinol); to abolish imperfections, fight against aging processes and offer the most perfect skin glow.

Because a healthy, good looking skin is pillar to confidence and ultimately total wellbeing, choose the most effective and innovative actives for your formulations.


11:50 am - 12:10 pm

“Solidification”- creating water-free bars and powders from conventional liquid shampoo and conditioner formulations

Following previous SCS Formulate presentations about solid and water-free formats, I will be talking about “Solidification”. This new technology allows for the formulation of solid water-free shampoo and conditioner bars using the same raw materials that are used in conventional liquid formulations!


12:10 pm - 12:30 pm

A game changer for the cosmetics industry? A revolutionary in vivo method to assess topical impact of ingredients and formulations on key pathways in skin

This talk will outline a game changer for evaluating actives and formulations. A revolution in non-invasive skin sampling means Cutest can now directly measure the effects of topical actives and formulations on gene expression, proteomics and more, in standard clinical studies on volunteers. Where we previously  had to rely on cells in culture or reconstructed skin models, with their flaws and limitations, Cutest can now make the same measurements on the face, hand or any other body site. Using our revolutionary technique, we can evaluate whether an active has the same impact on real people as it shows in vitro.: does it penetrate the skin?; does it lead to the gene and protein expression changes it exhibits in vitro? We will share data on well known actives to explain how you can develop the next generation of higher performance products, based on proven clinical benefits in vivo to ensure products deliver real consumer perceivable results. In addition, we will explain how this innovation allows you to understand how skin changes with age, environmental insult, menopause or many other factors and how products impact this in the real world (not the petri dish).


2:00 pm - 2:20 pm

A Microbiome Testing Pioneer: how to access clinical studies, microbiome formulations, and claims substantiation.

What happens when we encapsulate a probiotic in an anti-microbial sanitizer? What are the microbial signatures and dermotypes in Atopic Dermatitis? How does the skin microbiome change during ageing over 300 subjects from Europe and Asia? How are CSTs related to intimate area microbiome product development? Since launching the world’s first at home skin Microbiome + Genetics test in 2019, Sequential has been on a path to fully uncover how the microbiome and gene expression signatures relates to skin, scalp, and vaginal microbiome health. Sequential has worked with 60+ clients to support their clinical testing, and help them characterise the effect of their microbiome products on the microbiome in vivo, allowing for rigorous scientific R&D, claims support and substantiation. Please join Oliver’s talk to hear the answers to these questions and other exciting advances in molecular clinical testing.


Sequential is an industry leader in consumer microbiome testing for skin, scalp, and female health. Being named the most significant testing solution in the industry in 2022 and has worked with over 60 clients. Sequential has amassed a valuable dataset of over 30,000 clinical skin samples, 4000 topical ingredients and formulations tested on them, and strain-level quantitative microbiome analysis to fully characterise skin and intimate health.

With Sequential labs in NYC, London and Singapore, they are positioning themselves to be a global leader in the microbiome, mining a growing database for novel biomarkers and actives that will improve human health. Having become profitable in 2023, Sequential is now looking to raise capital to expand to further reduce costs of goods, and scale internationally. They are backed by Corundum Systems Biology, SOSV, Scrum Ventures, Metaplanet Holdings, Enterprise Singapore, Genedant Holdings, Royal Academy of Engineering and Innovate UK.


2:20 pm - 2:40 pm

Trends here to stay: A new perspective on aging, pro/well-aging and sustainable biotech empowering clean beauty! Smart solutions with ceramides and vegan collagen

The concept of pro-aging has gained momentum as a counter-movement to the anti-aging narrative.  Pro-aging advocates embracing aging gracefully and promoting products and lifestyles that support healthy aging – being the best version of oneself!  At the same time, greener production processes such as fermentation have gained significant attention owing to their sustainability as well as ability to yield effective actives.  The need: a beauty regimen supporting specific skin needs. The solution: two well-known hero ingredients with proven efficacy and based on biotechnology. Our SKINMIMICS® PRO MB consisting of a powerful combination of long chain ceramides and bioactive ceramides offers a premium solution for healthy aging.  By using our deep understanding of molecular biology and fermentation processes, we engineer yeast strains to produce our new vegan collagen to fortify the skin’s collagen deeper within the extracellular matrix. Together, Evonik’s ceramide and vegan collagen solutions bring effective and sustainable options for the pro-aging consumer.

Learning outcomes

Evolution of highly relevant marketing claims, and the importance of sourcing and production process to fulfil customer needs.


  • Rolf Smits Business Development Manager Active Ingredients - Evonik
2:40 pm - 3:00 pm

The Beauty of Scottish Seaweeds

The Secrets of Caledonia will introduce their new product, Brown Energy, that is an innovative extract made from three sustainably hand-harvested organic seaweeds, grown in harsh but clean conditions in North-Eastern Scotland. They are channeled wrack, egg wrack, and sea spaghetti, chosen as each of these have grown at different zones of the beach- and shoreface. These species have evolved to tolerate different environmental stressors: channeled wrack, which grows on the beach face, dries at low tide and is submerged at high tide; eggwrack, which grows on the upper shoreface, is under shear stress caused by the constant waves; and sea spaghetti grows at the lower shoreface where light is in short supply. They present a unique combination of minerals, polysaccharides, and omega-3 fatty acids, all of which have long been known to be very good for skin health. I will talk about its remarkable skincare efficacies, and demonstrate that Brown Energy can make your skin healthy, strong and youthful.


4:00 pm - 4:20 pm

Design your Signature Touch – Break complex multifactorial sensories in standardized measurable objective parameters

Describing a sensory with neutral feedback excluding personal judgement or variation of perception due to external conditions or cultural background is very complex, even for trained experts. However, a sensory is always the sum or the synergy of individual basic parameters.

Learn today about IOI Oleo’s simple method to break complex sensations into standardized, measurable, and objective parameters.


Key Takeaways:
Choose your emollients in three easy steps and design your Signature Touch in no time. In addition to polarity and spreading behavior, learn about the six simple parameters (such as penetration or film forming) that can be used to categorize all kinds of emollients. Experience the simplicity of this method directly at the booth of our partner Safic Alcan. Streamline the communication between marketing and R&D and shorten the time-to-market with the effective language of Sensorial Technologies.


  • Aurélien Tahon Head of Application Development and Technical Product Management - IOI Oleo GmbH
4:20 pm - 4:40 pm

Discover sustainable replacements for microplastics with new technology cellulose

Discover how to formulate microplastic-free. ECHA’s most recent proposal to ban microplastics that are defined as any substance that is smaller than 5mm and present at 0.01% by weight in any cosmetic products, creates a demanding project for cosmetic formulators to redevelop their products to be microplastic-free. This is not about the plastic microbeads that were banned in 2018 as the new proposal will include many substances such as functional polymers. There are many alternatives in the market however, they often lack good sensorial properties, stabilising capability or do not meet the naturality standards of the cosmetics market.

With this in mind, Technical Sales Manager, Kulvinder Kaur will be presenting new technology cellulose that can be used as a biodegradable solution with multifunctional uses in personal care formulations.

Key Takeaways: Finding biodegradable and sustainable solutions to microplastics.


4:40 pm - 5:00 pm

Decarbonization of raw material supply chains as a sustainability intervention