13 November Room B Seminars

Consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of their purchases. They are looking for personal care solutions that don't compromise on performance while being more natural and eco-friendlier. The Natural Origin Index (NOI) is an objective way to measure the naturality of ingredients and biodegradability is an important aspect to measure the impact on the environment. Nouryon has a range of fully natural and readily biodegradable solutions that can be used in skin- hair- and sun-care formulations.

Verdant have developed methods for delivering desirable aesthetics and sensorial properties to personal care formulations, whilst also boosting functionality and performance. These include: (1) MACKPEARL® Natural Pearliser range: liquid pearling agents designed for easy dispersibility to produce a pearled silky shine in formulations; (2) MACKSPEC® OCC range: fully formulated mild products with excellent sensorial and foaming properties that bring long-lasting hydration and moisturisation through the incorporation of high levels of natural oil; and (3) MACKSPEC® emulsifying and thickening polymer emollients that enhance stability and modify rheology in creams and gels for skin care applications and beyond.

As consumers are increasingly aware of the dangers of excessive sun exposure, and become more demanding of broad spectrum photoprotection, brands are challenged with building UV protection into Personal Care offerings -driving the trend for layering Sun Care across the different cosmetic segments. This ‘Sunnification’ trend blurs the lines between traditional Sun Care, Skin Care and Make-up.

The future of Sun Care merges technology and ecology, offering protection and well-being through formulas respectful of every skin type, consumer need and our planet.

Discover the BASF solutions for seamlessly weaving photoprotection into your daily ritual for an invisible shield against the ever-present sun​. Beyond UV Filters!

Geroscience showed that by targeting specific biological hallmarks, longevity extension is possible. Despite numerous studies, solutions are still needed to extend skin longevity. The objective here is to fill this gap and develop a natural active able to extend skin healthspan. Schisandrins are lignans acting on longevity hallmarks. An active enriched in these was developed from Schisandra chinensis berries. In vitro results showed that Schisandra extract (SchE) significantly increases longevity genes expression, autophagy and mitochondrial markers. In stressed 3D models, SchE restores skin barrier, reduces oxidation and inflammation. Clinically vs. placebo on multi-ethnic panels, SchE significantly increases skin microcirculation, elasticity and brightness and prevents wrinkles. As longevity is the result of the optimal functioning of interconnected biological activities, thanks to its multi-action on these, SchE is a potent solution to extend skin healthspan for a timeless beauty.

Make-up is “skinifying” at the same time skin-care is “make-upifying”. There are strong winds fuelling these trends as consumers are demanding more and more functionality from the products they are choosing to purchase, as they want to buy less, consume less, create less waste. Equally the demand for tic-tockable, instragram-able skin care products with “instant results” is increasing.

In this presentation we’ll talk about Kobo’s pigment and powder technologies that can be used to achieve these effects and show concept formulas.

Emollients play a pivotal role in cosmetic formulations, imparting specific characteristics, performances, and a sensory appeal to the final product, thereby contributing to the creation of sophisticated textures. ROELMI HPC proudly introduces the EMotion® line, a range of sustainable emollients developed through upcycling and green chemistry processes. As a result of the company’s extensive know-how in natural ingredient development, a thorough analysis of the technical, performance, and sensory profiles of each emollient has been conducted. This approach aims to provide a comprehensive guide to formulators and facilitate the creation of unique and customized sensory experiences.

Shea is one of the most widely used natural emollients in skin care and is renowned for being kind to the skin and the planet. Shea trees grow wild in sub-Saharan Africa, helping to protect against climate change, and millions of women rely on the seasonal collection and sale of shea kernels to supplement their income and provide for their family needs.

However, not all shea-based emollients are created equal, and formulators can face several challenges when using shea butter in cosmetic applications. One of the key issues is its tendency to crystallize, which can lead to a grainy texture in finished products, requiring careful control of the melting and cooling process. And while shea butter is highly moisturizing, it can feel greasy or heavy on the skin, making it difficult to achieve the light, silky, silicone-like textures required for premium face products.

In this presentation, we explore how optimizing the physical and sensory characteristics of shea butter allows increased functional use across all cosmetic applications, including an interesterified variant with high thermal stability, an energy-saving liquid version that enables clear, sprayable formulations, and a shea-based ester offering the same functional and sensory properties as dimethicone. All the shea variants described are directly sourced from the women's groups engaged in the AAK Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing program in West Africa. They are also climate-compensated, which means product emissions have been calculated and offset with Gold Standard and Fairtrade carbon credits generated from an energy-saving cookstove project in Burkina Faso. These products offer unparalleled benefits regarding sustainability credentials and functionality, making them the ideal choice for eco-conscious, ethically sourced, high-performance cosmetic products.