
A Practical Guide to Formulating with Sustainable Marine Derived Thickeners and Stabilisers
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Trevor Barker Personal Care Sales Manager - Rettenmaier

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Trevor Barker Personal Care Sales Manager - RettenmaierThe collagen superfamily includes 28 members, divided into 8 categories. In the skin, collagens I and III are the most expressed and belong to the fibrillar collagens category. However, other collagens are expressed and play crucial roles in cell anchorage, matrix assembly, cell signaling and skin homeostasis. During aging, the biosynthesis of collagens is declining, associated with the appearance of wrinkles and loss of skin quality markers such as luminosity or firmness.
Given the importance of all collagens and their interconnection, a new active ingredient was designed by artificial intelligence (AI) to preserve the skin collagen ecosystem from aging. This active ingredient relies on a patented molecular complex sodium hyaluronate (HA), tripeptide-1 and hexapeptide-9, integrated into cellulose gum matrix.
The beneficial effects of this molecular complex, leveraging the biomimicry of skin collagens, were highlighted by an increased expression of 20 collagen chains in ex vivo and in vitro studies.
These results were supported by two double-blind clinical studies demonstrating short term and long-term skin benefits on both Caucasian and Asian volunteers. The first study showed an immediate improvement of skin hydration, glow and smoothness at 3 minutes and 4 hours after mask application. In the second study, less wrinkles were observed in the crow’s feet area compared to placebo associated with better skin hydration and elasticity after 1 month.
Additionally, the ingredient provides an instant sensory feel, comparable to silicone-like sensory, contributing to the velvet touch and smooth effect, and adding a unique texture experience.
In conclusion, the efficacy of this innovative technology was significantly demonstrated across collagens, suggesting anti-aging benefits, as confirmed by clinical data. By combining the power of biomimicry and AI, we demonstrated how science can meet consumer expectations.
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Sabine Pain Senior Account Manager for Biofunctionals - Ashland Industries
Get a taste of the latest beauty trends hitting the shelves and what’s shaping the future of beauty for 2026/27 and beyond.
We’ll be sharing a sneak peek of our latest Annual Beauty Trends Report, touching on both current and emerging trends that are influencing the industry. We’ll also explore the virality of these trends and what it means for brands in the beauty and personal care space looking to stay ahead in an increasingly fast-moving, influence-driven market.
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William Cook Sales Director - Adina Cosmetic IngredientsSpeaker
Ana Domingo Technical Sales Support - BTSA
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Lauren Simson Technical Marketing & Development Chemist - Aston ChemicalsAt Surfachem, we introduce Cellscript - our latest concept. We believe that ageing is not a flaw to be erased but a rhythm to be understood and supported.
Only 20% of our ageing is genetic; the rest is shaped by how we live, how we care for ourselves, and how our skin responds to its environment. We explore this truth, creating a pro-longevity skincare concept that adapts, strengthens, and evolves with you - not by fighting time, but by working with the skin’s intrinsic intelligence.
Through epigenetic science, cellular signalling, and regenerative repair, we unveil ideas that don't just correct the surface, but strengthen the foundation for long-term vitality and radiance. The Future of Skin is resilience, not resistance.
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Mariam Tariq Personal Care Development Manager - Brands - Surfachem
Dana Cowley Technical Applications Manager - Surfachem
The ceramide market encounters several challenges, including complex formulation processes and reliance on synthetic sources. Oceamides® introduces an innovative, natural, and marine-derived alternative to synthetic ceramides, supporting skin barrier function, moisture, and anti-aging benefits. Sourced from the marine microalga Nannochloropsis oculata, this unique lipid complex effectively addresses both formulation hurdles and synthetic origin.
Lipidomic profile confirmed that Oceamides® contains human-identical ceramides (NP, NS) along with other key lipids present in the skin barrier. In vitro tests using a 3D human epidermal model demonstrated notable efficacy: a 37% improvement in skin barrier integrity (TEER) after 48 hours, a 27.5% reduction in cell lysis (LDH) at 24 hours, and a 35.4% increase in cell proliferation within the same period.
Clinical evaluations further substantiated its performance. At a 0.5% concentration in a cream, Oceamides® increased skin firmness by 14% and moisture by 13% after just 2 hours, matching or surpassing the effects of synthetic ceramide NP and significantly reducing the appearance of wrinkles in comparative trials.
Oceamides® offers distinct advantages for formulators: it is water-dispersible, removing the need for high-temperature processing and thus reducing production time and costs. It also exhibits excellent stability across a wide pH and temperature range, along with high skin compatibility.
In essence, this marine-derived ingredient represents a natural, effective, and multifunctional solution, backed by comprehensive scientific data, poised to redefine cosmetic approaches to skin barrier repair and anti-aging care. It stands as the first natural, marine-based ceramide alternative capable of replacing synthetic ceramides in formulations.
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David Ruiz Parra Sales Manager - MC Actives GmbH
‘Strategies For Formulating High Naturality Rinse Off Products – How To Maximise The Percentage and Minimise The Cost’
Stuck at your bench?
Does it feel like you need to choose between naturality and foam volume? Learn how to balance naturality, cost and performance with Innospec’s naturally derived range of surfactants.
In this presentation, you will learn how to select high performing sulfate-free surfactants while balancing naturality, cost and performance to deliver an outstanding foam volume, fast flash foam, quick rinsing and mild, effective cleansing.
Curiouser and curiouser? Come and discover our unique solutions to deliver great sensoriality in a sustainable way
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Amelie Nasso Applications Chemist - Innospec Performance Chemicals
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Julie Vernhes Principal Technical Specialist, EMEA - Inolex
Join us for a whirlwind tour around the latest trends in personal care! Why longevity is the new buzz in skincare, how the impact of climate change will affect how we formulate and making sure no-one gets left behind when it comes to the products we offer are just a few of the topics we will cover!
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Helen Hill Marketing Manager Personal Care EMEA - Azelis UKSpeaker
Elena Passerini Managing Director - Innovactive IngredientsSpeaker
Ignacio Lopez International Commercial Manager - ADP Cosmetics