New insights into collagens: Fibre collagen I and physiologically active collagen XVIII

11:50 - 12:10
November 15, 2018


Fibroblasts synthesize numerous important dermal building blocks such as the large structuring components hyaluronic acid, elastic fibres and collagens. Especially the versatile collagens play a key role in skin physiology. Meanwhile, consumers are well familiar with the term “collagen” that has positive connotations, and they realised that there is not one kind of collagen in the skin only.

Due to its high share in the dermis, collagen I takes on a special position. Stimulating the synthesis can contribute to an increase of firmness and help to slow down skin aging. Dermagenist™ supports each of the four major steps in the synthesis of collagen I, including both intra- and extracellular processes. The final formation stage involves the enzyme LOXL1, responsible of the assembly of precursor molecules to long fibres. BASF Beauty Creations found out that the release of LOXL1 is impacted by an epigenetic mechanism. Dermagenist™, a Cosmos-approved marjoram extract rich in vicenin and luteolin-7-0-glucuronide, strongly stimulates the investigated synthesis steps. As result, Dermagenist™ increases skin density as well as skin firmness.

Besides collagens that play a pure mechanical role, there are also forms that additionally participate in physiological processes. Among them, collagen XVIII is unique: it is the only collagenous proteoglycan with biological activity that is present in all skin layers. BASF Beauty Creations discovered that Collagen XVIII is decreasing with age. Collalift™18 stimulates the production of this specific substance, both in the dermal-epidermal junction and in the basement membrane of adipocytes. Clinical studies demonstrated an increase of skin elasticity, an improvement of the skin homogeneity and a reduction of wrinkles. Collalift™18 is a Cosmos-approved extract from the bark of African Mahogany, sourced in Burkina Faso under monitored conditions.


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