Room C Seminars

The collagen superfamily includes 28 members, divided into 8 categories. In the skin, collagens I and III are the most expressed and belong to the fibrillar collagens category. However, other collagens are expressed and play crucial roles in cell anchorage, matrix assembly, cell signaling and skin homeostasis. During aging, the biosynthesis of collagens is declining, associated with the appearance of wrinkles and loss of skin quality markers such as luminosity or firmness.

Given the importance of all collagens and their interconnection, a new active ingredient was designed by artificial intelligence (AI) to preserve the skin collagen ecosystem from aging. This active ingredient relies on a patented molecular complex sodium hyaluronate (HA), tripeptide-1 and hexapeptide-9, integrated into cellulose gum matrix.

The beneficial effects of this molecular complex, leveraging the biomimicry of skin collagens, were highlighted by an increased expression of 20 collagen chains in ex vivo and in vitro studies.

These results were supported by two double-blind clinical studies demonstrating short term and long-term skin benefits on both Caucasian and Asian volunteers. The first study showed an immediate improvement of skin hydration, glow and smoothness at 3 minutes and 4 hours after mask application. In the second study, less wrinkles were observed in the crow’s feet area compared to placebo associated with better skin hydration and elasticity after 1 month.

Additionally, the ingredient provides an instant sensory feel, comparable to silicone-like sensory, contributing to the velvet touch and smooth effect, and adding a unique texture experience.

In conclusion, the efficacy of this innovative technology was significantly demonstrated across collagens, suggesting anti-aging benefits, as confirmed by clinical data. By combining the power of biomimicry and AI, we demonstrated how science can meet consumer expectations.

Get a taste of the latest beauty trends hitting the shelves and what’s shaping the future of beauty for 2026/27 and beyond.

We’ll be sharing a sneak peek of our latest Annual Beauty Trends Report, touching on both current and emerging trends that are influencing the industry. We’ll also explore the virality of these trends and what it means for brands in the beauty and personal care space looking to stay ahead in an increasingly fast-moving, influence-driven market.

At Surfachem, we introduce Cellscript - our latest concept. We believe that ageing is not a flaw to be erased but a rhythm to be understood and supported.

Only 20% of our ageing is genetic; the rest is shaped by how we live, how we care for ourselves, and how our skin responds to its environment. We explore this truth, creating a pro-longevity skincare concept that adapts, strengthens, and evolves with you - not by fighting time, but by working with the skin’s intrinsic intelligence.

Through epigenetic science, cellular signalling, and regenerative repair, we unveil ideas that don't just correct the surface, but strengthen the foundation for long-term vitality and radiance. The Future of Skin is resilience, not resistance.

The ceramide market encounters several challenges, including complex formulation processes and reliance on synthetic sources. Oceamides® introduces an innovative, natural, and marine-derived alternative to synthetic ceramides, supporting skin barrier function, moisture, and anti-aging benefits. Sourced from the marine microalga Nannochloropsis oculata, this unique lipid complex effectively addresses both formulation hurdles and synthetic origin.

Lipidomic profile confirmed that Oceamides® contains human-identical ceramides (NP, NS) along with other key lipids present in the skin barrier. In vitro tests using a 3D human epidermal model demonstrated notable efficacy: a 37% improvement in skin barrier integrity (TEER) after 48 hours, a 27.5% reduction in cell lysis (LDH) at 24 hours, and a 35.4% increase in cell proliferation within the same period.

Clinical evaluations further substantiated its performance. At a 0.5% concentration in a cream, Oceamides® increased skin firmness by 14% and moisture by 13% after just 2 hours, matching or surpassing the effects of synthetic ceramide NP and significantly reducing the appearance of wrinkles in comparative trials.

Oceamides® offers distinct advantages for formulators: it is water-dispersible, removing the need for high-temperature processing and thus reducing production time and costs. It also exhibits excellent stability across a wide pH and temperature range, along with high skin compatibility.

In essence, this marine-derived ingredient represents a natural, effective, and multifunctional solution, backed by comprehensive scientific data, poised to redefine cosmetic approaches to skin barrier repair and anti-aging care. It stands as the first natural, marine-based ceramide alternative capable of replacing synthetic ceramides in formulations.

‘Strategies For Formulating High Naturality Rinse Off Products – How To Maximise The Percentage and Minimise The Cost’

Stuck at your bench?

Does it feel like you need to choose between naturality and foam volume? Learn how to balance naturality, cost and performance with Innospec’s naturally derived range of surfactants.

In this presentation, you will learn how to select high performing sulfate-free surfactants while balancing naturality, cost and performance to deliver an outstanding foam volume, fast flash foam, quick rinsing and mild, effective cleansing.

Curiouser and curiouser? Come and discover our unique solutions to deliver great sensoriality in a sustainable way

Join us for a whirlwind tour around the latest trends in personal care! Why longevity is the new buzz in skincare, how the impact of climate change will affect how we formulate and making sure no-one gets left behind when it comes to the products we offer are just a few of the topics we will cover!

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This session presents a multi-year analysis of the most common regulatory non-compliance trends, supported by real inspection feedback and challenges faced by Responsible Persons. Attendees will gain clear, actionable guidance to strengthen compliance frameworks, reduce regulatory risk, spot red flags early, and protect both consumer trust and business performance’[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Join us on an exciting journey where the richness of European traditions meets the forefront of personal care innovation. This presentation will unveil a selection from the curated collection of 14 groundbreaking formulations from diverse countries, showcasing an array of textures and formats such as powder, serums, sticks, oil-gel, oils, and biphase/trhiphase products, all crafted to elevate your personal care formulations. Attendees will explore formulations that embody the latest industry trends and meet the most sought-after consumer claims. Additionally, learn how to achieve these innovative formulations with synergistic and key ingredients, as our technical expert reveals essential hints and insights for their creation. Beauty Passport, will guide you on a sensory exploration through facial, body, sun, and hair care. Join us as we celebrate the fusion of European traditions and cutting-edge innovation, transforming your approach to personal care and enriching your well-being.

Verdant have developed innovative methods for sustainably delivering desirable aesthetics and sensorial properties to a wide range of Personal Care formulations, whilst also enhancing functionality and performance. The MACKPEARL® Liquid Pearliser range provides a means of bringing high shine pearlescence to formulations (e.g. shampoos and body washes) but in a more sustainable way than traditional solid pearlisers. Due to their liquid nature, these MACKPEARL® products can be easily dispersed into formulations through cold process and simple agitation, which brings time, energy and cost savings to the formulator. The characteristics of the resulting pearlescence is tunable, with some MACKPEARL® products bringing a shiny, more translucent pearl, others bringing a more opaque pearl, whilst a handful provide pearl-free opacity. The MACKPEARL® Pearlisers not only bring a luxurious aesthetic to formulations, but they also bring secondary benefits, such as viscosity building and foam boosting, whilst the compositional flexibility of the range means that formulators can further meet the consumer's sustainably needs, with sulfate-free, EO-free and alkanolamide-free options all being available.

The MACKSPEC™ OCC range are fully formulated performance concentrates that can again be introduced into formulations without the need for additional heat. They allow for high levels of natural oils (up to 30%) to be incorporated into a formulation, providing excellent sensorial benefits and long-lasting hydration and moisturisation to the end user. In a similar vein to the MACKPEARL® range, due to being composed of mild surfactants, they bring secondary benefits to the formulator, including a rich, creamy and stable foam, whilst also having the ability to suspend oils and beads in the formulation.

Talc is used widely in cosmetic applications, from body care to colour cosmetics, but there is a push from consumers to find alternatives to talc that meet the market needs without losing efficacy and functionality. Formulators are looking to discover new approaches for talc free formulations. Azelis has studied the attributes and benefits of starches to bridge the gap between expectations and performance.

Making anti-aging skin care consumer-relevant.

The first impression of a new person we meet is formed intuitively within seconds. This almost automatic process covers a whole range of factors, also taking into account how youthful and radiant the skin looks. Discover with us how we conducted a unique study to find out whether 170 naïve graders would choose the photo showing the side treated with CutiGuard CLR™.

And what if they only have 3 seconds to make their decision?

Empowering Skin to Resist Time: Sytheon's, Now Hallstar, Innovative Approach to Skin Longevity. Join Olivier Garnier, PhD & MBA, EMEA Sales Manager showcasing Sytheon's, now Hallstar, cutting-edge solutions in reversing skin aging hallmarks. This presentation will explore scientific insights into the extreme human lifespan and the molecular hallmarks of aging. We will present 3 actives protecting, fortifying and rejuvenating skin layers and offer a perfect combination for a perfect glow. Embrace the future of skincare with Sytheon's, now Hallstar, innovative, scientifically backed solutions that empower skin to resist time and enhance longevity.

OBJECTIVE:
Recently, due to environmental impact and regulation, the challenge given to R&D to replace petro-based polymers has never been more important. But the description of a polymer is complex. Each polymer can be considered from its chemical structure, its organization, its rheology properties, its functionality, its sensorial behavior. A new data tool with multi criteria approached is evaluated on this study.

METHOD:
Cargill’s innovation team had the idea that Artificial Intelligence (traditional AI – not Gen AI) could be the right medium for a new comprehensive approach on cosmetic polymers. The aim was to create a tool capable of performing an analysis on big data and then generating predictive results according paterns. 44 criteria based on rheology, tribology, texture analyzer and sensory data were identified. The evaluation of 30 polymers including petro-based and derived natural polymers generated over 8,000 data points.

RESULTS:
Data Science team a t Cargill design a dedicated tool for cosmetic in order to have a more comprehensive knowledge on polymers. Cargill’s polymer mapping tool gives a support to visualize the position of derived natural polymers and the petro-based polymers. It confirms the generic knowledge that petro-based polymers behave differently from derived natural materials. Only combinations of derived natural polymers can offer an alternative to petro-based materials. The mapping is showing that lot of natural polymers network are associative. This pattern gives us opportunity to design a new intelligent able to predict behavior of association of polymers. From this unique tool we can foresee best associations to replace dedicated synthetic polymers.

The results provided by artificial intelligence is confirmed by new material developed and launched by Cargill Beauty to replace a carbomer. The example of our new Actigum Care shows the relevancy of the options of association proposed by the tool as replacement of Carbomer.

CONCLUSIONS:
Crafted with precision we are able to adjust combinations of natural material for the replacement of petro-based polymer.