Inspire Room C Seminars

K-Beauty has redefined beauty with its innovative textures, multifunctional products, and unique sensory experience. This presentation explores how these concepts can be adapted for the European market through practical formulation examples featuring Momentive's Harmonie™ ingredients and silicone technologies, delivering enhanced spreading, cushioning, and optical benefits while meeting local consumer preferences and trends.

Introduction: Peptides are a cornerstone of anti-aging science, yet innovation typically prioritizes new sequences over delivery efficiency. This study addresses the inherent limitations of peptide stability and bioavailability by developing a novel lipid core-shell capsule for Pal-KTTKS. While Pal-KTTKS is a gold-standard anti-wrinkle agent, its efficacy is often hindered by poor skin penetration and rapid degradation. We present a sophisticated delivery strategy designed to maximize the therapeutic window of this peptide through structural stabilization and controlled release.

Methods: Lipid core-shell systems were synthesized using a blend of solid/liquid lipids stabilized by phospholipids. Stability was monitored at room temperature and 40°C via particle size (light diffraction) and pH. Structural characterization was performed using Small-Angle X-ray Scattering (SAXS) and TEM. Encapsulation efficiency was determined by tangential filtration, and release kinetics were analysed via dialysis. Ex vivo bioactivity was assessed in skin explants (with/without microneedling) via immunohistochemistry for collagen and involucrin. Finally, a double-blind, half-face clinical study (n=33) evaluated efficacy at 3 ppm over 28 days using fringe projection and identometry to measure skin topography and firmness.

Results: The system maintained stability for 12 months (0.27 ± 0.04 µm) with 99% encapsulation efficiency. SAXS confirmed a complex multilayered architecture (structural diameter 178 nm). Release profiles followed biexponential and Weibull models, showing a biphasic mechanism 37 times slower than free peptide, confirming the core-shell organization. Encapsulation extended the peptide half-life from 60 minutes to 20 hours, providing a robust barrier against enzymatic degradation. In skin explants, the system significantly increased involucrin and Collagen III, IV, and total collagen compared to free peptide; microneedling further synergized Collagen I/III synthesis. Clinically, the encapsulated form outperformed the free peptide, achieving a 10.4% reduction in microstructure density and a 25.0% increase in firmness (vs. 5.9% and 17.2% for free peptide). Visible smoothing was significant by day 14, with progressive improvement through day 28.

Conclusions: Nanostructured lipid encapsulation creates a protective, controlled-release environment for Pal-KTTKS. By extending enzymatic half-life and enhancing cutaneous efficacy, this system achieves superior clinical outcomes over traditional formulations. These results demonstrate that lipid encapsulation is a highly effective strategy for optimizing the delivery and performance of bioactive peptides.

What evidence is required to prove that a product works?  Join me for a brief walk through the types of study design that can help you to substantiate your advertising and efficacy claims, what type of study to choose, how to prepare for your studies, how to avoid the common pitfalls and how to prepare for global expansion.

Discover a multifunctional, naturally derived biolipid created through an advanced fermentation process that elevates modern beauty care. It provides powerful conditioning benefits, improved combability, softness and flexibility to hair while delivering a silky, smooth, non-greasy sensory feel on the skin. Its distinctive fatty acid profile ensures excellent spreadability, a luxurious touch and a refined finish across various applications. Supported by strong environmental advantages and broad formulation versatility, this next-generation ingredient enables the creation of high-performing, sensorially rich products aligned with the future of responsible and clean beauty.

Are dark circles, puffiness, wrinkles, and a fatigued eye contour area making you look older than you feel?

This delicate area is one of the first places to show signs of aging, with seven key facial soft tissues contributing to its overall appearance: vascular and lymphatic systems, epidermis, dermis, adipose tissue, muscles, and ligaments. Scientific research has revealed that the lymphatic and vascular systems are essential for maintaining fluid balance and healthy skin. Eyeseryl® All-In peptide, discovered combining AI powered virtual screening and Lubrizol’s scientific expertise, addresses all seven soft tissues of the eye contour, including ligaments.

With this breakthrough hexapeptide, we introduce the Amplifying Release Cycle as a central driver of inflammatory leakage and tissue degradation in this region, and describe how interrupting this cycle underpins the ingredient’s holistic activity in the eye contour area.Naturally-derived, PFAS-free, and manufactured via Green Chemistry, Eyeseryl® All-In peptide targets seven key soft tissues of the eye contour. This multifunctional action helps improve the appearance of dark circles, eye bags, wrinkles, and other signs of fatigue for a fully rejuvenated eye contour, with visible results in just 7 days.

Maximise formulation performance with fewer, smarter ingredient choices. This technical session introduces Ajinomoto's multifunctional ingredient portfolio, demonstrating how versatile materials such as Amihope LL and Amisoft HS-11 can be used across multiple applications. Through practical formulation examples and technical demonstrations, discover how to streamline development, improve efficiency, and create high-performing products without compromising innovation or consumer experience.