15 November Seminars

Delivering excellence in consumer experience is critical to continued product success for all personal care and cosmetic manufacturers. Capturing this experience is essential in qualitative and quantitative research to maximise insight and provide robust and accurate data that will drive successful innovation and support product claims. SAM has a range of new data collection tools that use mobile apps, voice recognition and gamification to increase consumer engagement and better capture those critical moments of truth. These tools will be introduced in this presentation alongside a new approach to measure the relative roles of product, brand and pack to product success.

Key Takeaways:
A fresh look at how to approach insight generation and claims research.

We have developed a Bakuchiol Gel-Cream and an Omega-Barrier Cream to demonstrate the versatility that SonneNatural’s innovative plant-based emollients can bring to your personal care formulations.

As it is the societys 75^th birthday, Shona will reflect on some of the changes the industry has seen over the last 75 years – good and bad!

The industry is more highly regulated than ever but what challenges will that bring for the formulator, the retailer and the consumer?

Each day, 3 new beauty brands are launched, and 3 brands die, just in France. Now scale that globally - the Personal Care Ingredient Marketing is undergoing unprecedented change. Join us to discover a systematic way to uncover emerging demand per ingredient, per market, per application, per brand, before the trends take off.

Key Takeaways:  Amid all the noise and industry changes, Gravel AI's Ingredient Market Intelligence Platform streams market signals that enable chemical manufacturers to get a clear picture of emerging demand for their ingredients.

The current challenge in formulating natural surfactant systems is not to find natural surfactants. It is more the question how to thicken those surfactant combinations, achieving a good foaming and leaving a nice sensory on skin and hair.

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]One of the questions you often ask is about the choice between a homogenizer and an overhead stirrer. In this demonstration, we will show you how they work, what they do and what you can choose at the beginning when you just start to establish your cosmetic lab.[/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space][vc_btn title="Visit Stand 405 for More Information" align="left" css_animation="zoomInRight" button_block="true" link="url:https%3A%2F%2Fwww.scsformulate.co.uk%2Fexhibitor%2Fika-england%2F||target:%20_blank|"][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_empty_space][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width="1/4"][vc_single_image image="9436" img_size="full" alignment="center" onclick="custom_link" img_link_target="_blank" link="https://www.ika.com/en/Products-LabEq/Overhead-Stirrers-pg187/MINISTAR-40-control-25001989/"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/4"][vc_single_image image="10360" img_size="full" alignment="center" onclick="custom_link" img_link_target="_blank" link="https://www.ika.com/en/Products-LabEq/Overhead-Stirrers-pg187/EUROSTAR-100-control-4028500/"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/4"][vc_single_image image="10361" img_size="full" alignment="center" onclick="custom_link" img_link_target="_blank" link="https://www.ika.com/en/Products-LabEq/Dispersers-pg177/T-25-easy-clean-control-ULTRA-TURRAX-25002500/"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/4"][vc_single_image image="10362" img_size="full" alignment="center" onclick="custom_link" img_link_target="_blank" link="https://www.ika.com/en/Products-LabEq/Dispersers-pg177/T-50-digital-ULTRA-TURRAX-3787000/"][/vc_column][/vc_row]

Addressing the consumer need for cleansers that don’t dry out skin, Softhance™ MR conditioning agent is a nature-derived, biodegradable ingredient that deposits itself on the skin from rinse-off cleansing systems, enabling skin moisture retention and leaving consumer-perceivable skin softness.  Consumer studies have shown that Softhance™ MR improves foam and leaves skin feeling perceivably softer and moisturized even after rinse-off.  Broad surfactant compatibility enables creation of sulfate-free or anionic surfactant-based hand, face or body washes and scrubs that are both clear and conditioning.  Softhance™ MR has a high nature-derived content of 82% and is vegan-suitable, non-GMO, and non-microplastic.

Learn more about Softhance™ MR conditioning agent in this presentation, which will include data, formulation tips and inspiring formulations that highlight two additional sustainable innovations, Liftyl™ biofunctional and Phyteq™ Raspberry i multifunctional.  Liftyl™ is a premium rosewood extract from upcycled wood chips for face sculpting that can redraw the skin contours and smooth out wrinkles, leaving the skin naturally rejuvenated with a bouncy glow.  Phyteq™ Raspberry I is a multifunctional preservative booster inspired by nature that acts as preservative potentiator to protect a cosmetic formulation against spoilage while also providing antioxidant and free radical scavenging properties that help to retain the elasticity of the skin.

Sulfate-free trend continues to grow worldwide, especially in North America and in Europe, explained by different drivers: the increased awareness of consumers about the ingredients entering their cosmetic products and their possible impact on their health & on the planet, the bad image of sulfates, perceived as harsh chemicals and associated with skin and eye irritation, etc.

However, in Sulfate Free, the formulators have to face many challenges, starting by achieving the desired viscosity, while keeping stability of the chassis over time. The salt topic is thus key. Indeed salt helps to build the viscosity but if present in too much quantity, it can cause also clarity and stability issues, especially when the formula incorporates cationic polymer for Hair/Skin conditioning, or naturally-derived thickening polymer with limited salt tolerance.

During the presentation, François-Florian will present the Solvay’s strong expertise in Sulfate Free formulations and the various developed ingredients and solutions to rise to these different challenges.

With the growing number of plant-based consumers and vegan brands, many formulators and microbiologists within the industry are striving to achieve a fully vegan process. This begins at sourcing raw materials, through to formulation and product packaging, as well as microbial product testing. ISCA Cosmetic Testing are able to provide their customers with testing methods that have been certified by The Vegan Society.

Key Takeaways:

• An overview of regulations and requirements to bring a cosmetic product to market.
• Find out why the current PET testing methods are not vegan and explore the alternative methods that ISCA Cosmetic Testing can offer.
• Discover ISCA’s current R&D formulatory work using new and innovative concept ideas.

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Do you know your flash foam from your luxurious feel? Do you prefer lacy open structures or tight dense textures? Foam is so much more than a visual cue and is often misinterpreted as an indicator of cleansing performance. Let Innospec take you on a journey to explore the sensory experience and the different foam characteristics of a selection surfactant classes. Join us to literally get hands on with our surfactant range.

For this presentation we will delve into the dynamic and ever-changing global regulatory landscape. Amanda and Olivia will uncover a wealth of invaluable insights as they reflect upon both timeless and new challenges that brands have encountered throughout 2023.
Discover how these challenges are projected to evolve in 2024 and gain essential strategies to confidently navigate the future and embrace upcoming regulatory shifts.

We’ll touch on where we are now as a company and the evolution of the expectations around natural extracts.  Then we’ll highlight our agility in relation to creating extracts with new trend ingredients and to satisfy emerging trends in the sector, and we’ll close on a feature of a project to bring to market a brand-new botanical.  Essentially we’ll weave a company update in with a showcase of three exciting products not widely (or at all!) accessible elsewhere.

Key Takeaways:  Sourcing with Respect in South America – Yerba Mate / The Mystique of the Mushroom – Lion’s Mane / A Secret from South Africa – Scarlet Geranium

Aevum Vita 406 is a mild, naturally derived surfactant for use in cosmetic products with excellent anti-microbial and foaming properties.

It exhibits anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties, allowing formulators to reduce or even eliminate the preservative content from their formulations. Furthermore, Aevum Vita 406 shows excellent anti-dandruff and good anti-acne activities. It shows very good anti-fungal activity against Malassezia Furfur, which has been shown to cause dandruff on the scalp.

Human skin is a complex organ which performs several important functions, many of which are essential for human health and homeostasis. The skin is also colonised by diverse populations of microorganisms known as the skin microbiome or more properly as the skin microbiota. The role of the microbiota in skin health is still an emerging area of scientific investigation, however it is known to play an important role in many vital physiological functions. An imbalance in the skin microbiota know as dysbiosis is associated with several human diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.

 Many topically applied cosmetic products contain ingredients such as preservatives and surfactants with the potential to alter the composition and function of the skin microbiota potentially leading to dysbiosis. Here at Melbec Microbiology we offer a sensible step wise testing approach to evaluate the impact of cosmetic ingredients and products on the skin microbiota. We are also looking to the future of skin microbiome testing, specifically in the areas of metatranscriptomics and metabolomics to not only evaluate the composition of the skin microbiota but also its function.

This latest make up mousse formulation developed by our Innovation and Technology Center is a perfect all-in-one combination of primer, powder, concealer and make-up! Our mousse mattifies the skin, blurs fine lines and pores, reduces redness, covers skin imperfections and creates a natural even finish for a soft, velvety skin and beautiful look. Furthermore, it is ideal for all skin types and adapts to your individual skin tone. Use a little mousse for a light natural effect or use more to achieve a darker finish.

While the generic definition of the use of makeup is positioned as a prop for the assimilation of youthfulness and desirability, Black women and their cosmetic beauty practices have been historically defined by the way they are viewed from a Eurocentric perspective. This gaze aligns itself with the value of whiteness and racial capital, and in turn informs the ideal of blushing. That blushing occurs in all racial ethnic groups is less surprising than the need to debate whether rouge is appropriate on deeper skin tones as it doesn’t appear ‘natural’, (a phrase that needs to be contested also). In addition, the societal attitudes and reinforced media messages attached to the use of rouge, inform self esteem, job acquisition and social advancement, while informing perceptions of immoral behaviour and status that are akin to that of colourism.   And yet the aesthetic celebration of the blush can provide a more nuanced appreciation of black skin for its users, precisely because the aim of its application is to add attention, and not minimize or diminish.

This talk aims to question whether the cosmetic construction of blushing and Black beauty ideals is advanced if the aesthetic definition of blushing changes. How should the current connotations of the application of rouge for Black skins be challenged? With an increasing market focus on the Black consumer, a revision of blushing and the use of rouge products can provide the cosmetic industry with the opportunity to consider new interpretations of what Black Beauty is, and could be.

Key Takeaways:

1. Revise interpretation of blushing for Black consumers
2. Challenge market focus of rouge products for Black skin tones
3. Encourage Black consumers to engage in a wide range of cosmetic products, but without minimizing their experience
4. Utilise development of Black Beauty ideals to expand the product reach for the cosmetics industry

TiMOOD™ provides a healthy, even skin complexion and positively influences one’s mood and emotional well-being by stimulating the skin brain axis to influence feelings of relaxation, balance, and calm.

Key Takeaways:
Improvement of emotional wellbeing in terms of being less stressed and more relaxed, evaluated with a new tool; a non-verbally and unbiased Neuropsychological test for the cosmetic industry.

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Rebecca will give an overview of the trends in the botanical market for 2024 and beyond, plus how Croda is set up to support customers’ new product development. Come along to find out more about the trend topics and how these are likely to impact the market next year!

Key Takeaways: Trends in the botanical market and how Croda can support you in developing formulations using our botanical extracts.

Ready to be inspired?

Vitamin E, specifically the RRR-α-tocopherol stereoisomer, is crucial for protecting the skin against OXY-AGING especially as UV exposure depletes the endogenous tocopherol in the stratum corneum by >90%.

Learn more from Corinne Déchelette at SCS formulate in November about OXY R³- Protection by RRR-α-tocopherol and how Kensing is advancing the science of RRR plant-based tocopherols through ground-breaking research based on Dynamic Molecular simulations and Confocal Microscopy analysis of skin cells.

Daily replenishment of RRR plant-based tocopherols is critical in any skin care regimen to protect the skin cells from exposome induced lipoperoxidation.

Refining the appearance of pores: a multifaceted challenge
Results from a recent large study by Revieve Oy show: the number 3 skin concern for women is visibility of pores. The cosmetic industry seems not to have been able to supply the consumer with products which are effective enough to tackle this concern. Hence, there is a demand for active ingredients which can act at the core of those biological processes in the skin that lead to conspicuous pores.
There are two aspects to skin pores which dictate how conspicuous they are and how much of a concern they become. Large pores are more visible. The contrast between the color of the pores and the surrounding skin is another important factor, however.
CLR has developed CutiFine CLR™ which was designed to address all important cell biological features which make pores more conspicuous.
CutiFine CLR™ acts on sebum production, barrier function, inflammation, free radicals, glycation, protein carbonylation, keratinocyte hyperproliferation and dermal structure. In an in vivo study, CutiFine CLR™ showed its efficacy on visibility of skin pores, both as measured with AEVA-HE technology and, even more importantly, in the perception of the volunteers who took part in the study.

Key Takeaways:
CutiFine CLR™ is the first ingredient which addresses all cell biological processes, which contribute to skin pores becoming more conspicuous.
Sustainably produced from extractions of cowherb and the fruit pulp of baobab.
Reduces the size of pores without having astringent activity.
Acts on multiple pathways which increase color contrast between pores and skin.

Beauty Movements: The next phase of inclusive beauty

Movements are memorable because they signify a shift, a breakthrough, something long-lasting.

When we think about beauty movements, over the past few years we’ve seen huge strides with inclusivity and transparency. Beauty brands are casting a wider net, to ensure all communities, all humans, feel welcome, whether that is through gender, hair/body/skin types, ethnicity, or disability adaptations. The door is open for ALL and brands are eager to bring consumers into their world, tell their story, and share experiences. Join us in a discussion on the next phase of inclusive beauty, a beauty that knows “No Boundaries.” Learn how this next phase of inclusivity is shaping product development, textures and even ingredient selections. Let’s envisage what the consumer of today and tomorrow will expect from beauty brands through their own personal, yet inclusive experience.

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• Welcome and brief intro to Rose – career from beginning to now: English Literature degree, aspirations of journalism, weekend job as a make-up artist, how the two worlds merged to create working life today. Brief explanation of what she does right now, a mixture of sharing rosacea resources, sharing accessible make-up tutorials, and writing about beauty for various women’s titles.
• Rosacea story – diagnosis, choosing to share findings online, how this opened up a powerful ongoing discussion and ignited her own fascination with formulations.
• Social media – how the world communicates differently on each platform and how you can find different things on each platform! Instagram: for talking to your own community. TikTok: for everyone to join the conversation and for authentic conversation (with special mention to a fantastic formulator who brings scientific commentary to viral beauty products!). Facebook: the place to see what your audience really want and need from formulations.
• Wish list – what Rose would love to see in formulations moving forward.
• Testimonies and a thank you – an insight into the power of your formulations for real men and women. A chance to hear intimate feedback from people who find so much more than a formulation when they discover the right product. How your hard work can transform a person’s day, self-esteem, confidence, and potentially even their life.
• Close and open to questions.

With zero-waste lifestyles opening doors to new solid and waterless formulations and formats with a luxury feel, there is an opportunity for skincare brands to create more glamorous and premium solid formats that give the same sensorial and functional qualities as traditional products.

In this workshop, Cornelius and Strahl & Pitsch will explore a range of different wax and oil combinations at different percentages, in both a ‘matrix’ format and in finished products, to demonstrate how important it is to choose the right wax for your formulation.

Try for yourself how a wax can improve structure and stability, give a more elegant talcy feel, increase the richness of a formula, or give a pseudo-silicone effect, and how these waxes interact with different natural and synthetic oils.

Don’t miss this opportunity to learn from our wax expert, Roger McKenna from Strahl & Pitsch, who specialise in importing, refining, and custom blending waxes since 1904.

If you can’t make the workshop, then call by Stand 733 to talk to Jen and Roger about the wonderful world of waxes and how they can help you to elevate your formulation textures!

Alchemy Ingredients specialises in developing natural functional ingredients that can be used as substitutes for synthetic materials in cosmetic formulations. In this talk we will be introducing some new products that will be launched at SCS Formulate, along with some new formulations to provide inspiration for your projects.

Say goodbye to oily, blemished skin and hello to a flawless skin with Epispot, the game-changing extract from Willowherb (Epilobium Angustifolium). This powerful ingredient is dedicated to tackling the multiple imbalances that plague oily, problematic skin such as excess oil production, microbiome imbalance and weakened defense against daily damage. With added pore refining and skin-texture-enhancing benefits, Epispot is the ultimate multi-rebalancing solution for oily, blemished skin.

Epilobium Angustifolium, also known as Willowherb, is a magical plant with an extraordinary ability to restore balance in the natural world. Its delicate pink flowers bloom amidst the charred remains of a forest fire, signaling the beginning of a new cycle of life. As the plant grows, it stabilizes the soil and restores nutrients, providing a nourishing environment for other plants and animals to thrive.

Now, imagine bringing that same sense of balance and harmony to your skincare routine!

In this session we’ll explore some hot topics for beauty and dive into the implications for the actual product. Trend forecasts often don’t drill down into the consequences of trends for the chemist, or are so broad sweeping that they are meaningless, but the devil is in the detail and these can make or break a product.

You never get a second chance to make a first impression!

Join Cyrille Deshayes, Specialist in Suncare, Skincare and Haircare to introduce you to the key success of the dsm-firmenich sensory expertise, on Wednesday 15th November at 14:00.

Share this moment to learn more about our sensory evaluation and overcome challenges and experience immediate results with:

• Valvance® Touch 210, offering sun formulations with our latest UVA filter, PARSOL® DHHB, a quick absorbency and improving the waxiness during and after application.
• Combination of carefully selected actives in night cream formulations developed for menopause solutions, that leaves the skin with a light feeling and a comfort of wellbeing.

Boost your products with dsm-firmenich sensory expertise to optimize consumer acceptability of the adjusted formulations and offer formulation concepts that satisfy consumers need.

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Keep inhomogeneous media moving, even during pumping.

Key Takeaways: Attend Flux Pumps mixing demonstration to learn from Peter Joy how our F426 is the perfect solution for mixing and pumping media in barrels and containers.[/vc_column_text][vc_empty_space][vc_btn title="Visit Stand 1117 for More Information" align="left" css_animation="zoomInRight" button_block="true" link="url:https%3A%2F%2Fwww.scsformulate.co.uk%2Fexhibitor%2Fflux-pumps-int-uk-ltd%2F||target:%20_blank|"][vc_empty_space][vc_row_inner][vc_column_inner width="1/3"][vc_single_image image="10396" img_size="full" alignment="center"][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width="1/3"][vc_single_image image="10397" img_size="full" alignment="center"][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width="1/3"][vc_single_image image="10398" img_size="full" alignment="center"][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][/vc_column][/vc_row]

In this presentation the features and benefits of SonneNatural for personal care formulations will be presented.  The focus will be on how our plant-based emollient offers high levels of moisturisation and stability and contribute to the sensory profile of your natural formulations.

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Specialized in the development of balanced size mineral filters for sun care, skin care and color cosmetic products, ADP Cosmetics will present their latest generation of ingredients and their broad-spectrum protection with the minimum environmental impact on oceans and coral reefs.

Do you still think that formulating sunscreens with a low concentration of non-nano mineral filters and without whitening effect is impossible? ADP Cosmetics presents its proposal of coloured and transparent effect filters that makes this possible, including protection in the broad spectrum, without an environmental impact.

There is no doubt that now that we are all living longer, there will be many challenges ahead. It's important to look at the needs of a range of different demographics when formulating so we can make products more sustainable and efficient for different generations and multifunctional where gender lines are becoming more blurred.

A thought-provoking session on approaches to product development, ways of making it more effective, free up time to focus on innovation and how scientists can influence processes using scientific thinking.

Koboguard Natural PFX is a synergistic blend of natural functional materials bringing a multitude of benefits to skin, sun, make-up and hair care formulas. It builds breathable films as well as providing non drip rheology and viscosity modification, sensory and soft focus effects. Liquid and easy to incorporate.

Can we do more with less? As we strive towards improving sustainability, solely focusing on high naturality is not always going to be enough. In this seminar we will discuss technologies designed to improve the efficacy of plant-sourced actives whilst reducing their environmental impact - saving water, energy and land-use and through the reduction of waste. We will also explore the different applications and potential of the most abundant natural polymer on Earth – including improving sensory properties, film forming, and use as a thickener

Fermentation is the oldest form of Biotechnology. We are ferment pioneers and create unique bio-ferments which are then usually combined with certain synergistic ingredients to produce very efficacious cosmetic actives. Our ferment technology brings differentiated solutions to enhance functional performance and deliver aesthetic benefits in both skincare and haircare.

This presentation will throw light upon the current trends in the Beauty and Personal Care (B&PC) Industry with a prime focus on Skin Care. The presentation will explain the scientific importance of the unique, patented and multifunctional bioactives produced exclusively by bitop AG. These bioactives are stress protection molecules also known as ‘Extremolytes’ and have a clinically proven efficacy.

bitop offers 100% natural, multifunctional bioactives for sustainable, clean and highly efficacious skin care.

Psychological stress has negative effects on healthy skin affecting its integrity and function.

This is due to the activation of the central and peripheral cutaneous hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis, including the 11β-HSD1 enzyme that catalyzed the conversion from inactive cortisone to active cortisol in skin cells.

AKOSKY^TM MINDLIGHT was able to act on cortisol biosynthesis and fibroblast stiffness consequently reducing skin aging and skin damage induced by psychological stress.

The effect of AKOSKY^TM MINDLIGHT (lyophilized) active was investigated in vitro, evaluating its cell proliferative effects and impact on cortisol biosynthesis associated with the inhibition of the 11β-HSD1 enzyme. In addition, mechanical properties analysis was realized in cell culture treated with the active ingredient and cortisol. To assess it, it is performed an Atomic Force Microscope measurement to obtain information about the mechanical properties of primary fibroblasts from a 30-year-old donor, both in the nucleus and the cytoplasm area to also obtain information about the global fibroblast stiffness.

Moreover, AKOSKY^TM MINDLIGHT was clinically tested on a stressed population to observe its efficacy in improving the expression wrinkles, skin mechanical properties, skin barrier, skin redness, and skin radiance.

Globally, this innovative study demonstrated, for the first time in the cosmetic field, that cortisol has a negative impact on fibroblast mechanical properties, causing its increase in stiffness, and consequently, premature aging, and AKOSKY^TM MINDLIGHT both inhibits cortisol biosynthesis and decreases fibroblast stiffness.

Accordingly, AKOSKY^TM MINDLIGHT, an active ingredient based on Medicago Sativa sprouts, showed to reduce the unwanted effects of stress on the skin of individuals.

From the first bright idea to a fresh new product on the market, we’ll be taking you through the brand building process at Crafted to help launch great ideas into the cosmetics world.