Biotech Innovations – From Fermented Foods to Fermented Skincare
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- Stephan Telge International Technical Sales Manager - Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
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Consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of their purchases. They are looking for personal care solutions that don't compromise on performance while being more natural and eco-friendlier. The Natural Origin Index (NOI) is an objective way to measure the naturality of ingredients and biodegradability is an important aspect to measure the impact on the environment. Nouryon has a range of fully natural and readily biodegradable solutions that can be used in skin- hair- and sun-care formulations.
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Following a study into drought and disease resistance in plants, 2,3 Butanediol was identified as a significant factor in both attributes. This discovery led to the use of 2,3 butanediol as a cosmetic ingredient, bringing effective moisturisation and humectancy to formulations, and supporting effective preservation. Produced commercially using a natural fermentation process, this versatile substance is shown to give superior performance to synthetic analogues commonly used in cosmetics, while having reduced environmental impact. This presentation will detail the production, use and benefits of 2,3 Butanediol, relative to more commonly used materials.
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“EverBond™ is a naturally derived bond-building ingredient that works to repair oxidatively damaged disulfide bonds and strengthen the keratin integrity of the hair fibre. A characteristic of healthy hair is a high level of intact, disulfide bonds which gives the hair its structure and strength. When hair colour, shape or style is modified, either through the chemical bleaching process, relaxing or perming, these bonds can weaken or are broken. This oxidative process results in cysteic acid formation within the hair and weakens the hair fibre making it more prone to breakage. This type of damage is traditionally believed to be irreversible and creates a need for an ingredient that penetrates into the cortex to repair these broken bonds and increase keratin integrity. EverBond creates a reducing environment to reverse this oxidative process, allowing the disulfide bonds to reform. The reformation of these disulfide bonds in turn strengthens the hair protein, making the hair stronger and more resistant to breakage. The alpha keratin is strengthened, allowing hair to be more elastic when force is applied.
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Verdant have developed methods for delivering desirable aesthetics and sensorial properties to personal care formulations, whilst also boosting functionality and performance. These include: (1) MACKPEARL® Natural Pearliser range: liquid pearling agents designed for easy dispersibility to produce a pearled silky shine in formulations; (2) MACKSPEC® OCC range: fully formulated mild products with excellent sensorial and foaming properties that bring long-lasting hydration and moisturisation through the incorporation of high levels of natural oil; and (3) MACKSPEC® emulsifying and thickening polymer emollients that enhance stability and modify rheology in creams and gels for skin care applications and beyond.
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The global suncare market is one of the fastest growing in personal care. Alzo International offers a variety of ingredients for suncare formulations. This includes a 100% naturally derived and biodegradable film former. In addition, Alzo International offers many naturally-derived ingredients for suncare to improve aesthetics, sunscreen solubility and stability.
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[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text css=""]Presentation of a nature-derived, biodegradable thickener that can offer clarity and suspension in skincare products, and study of its synergy with electrolytes to improve its efficiency.
Polymers have been used as rheology and texture modifiers in skin care for many years. Among all polymers, acrylates are still the most widely used in formulation due to their low cost, efficiency, and wide variety. Regardless of their benefits, acrylates have some shortfalls, such as low sustainability along with poor tolerance to electrolytes and relatively low slip.
Cellulosic thickeners have origins in nature (unlike the acrylates) as they are traditionally derived from cotton fibers and/or trees. The cellulose is then reacted with various functional groups to produce several variants which have been used successfully as thickeners for various applications in personal care for decades, but they were never able to exhibit suspending properties. A unique carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), sold under the tradename natrathix™ bio cellulose, with specific degrees of substitution and polymerization has recently been designed to deliver suspension.
During this workshop, we will demonstrate how this innovative CMC behaves in a variety of formulations with varying particles, oil phase content and with different emulsifiers. In addition, we will explore synergies between natrathix™ bio cellulose with commonly used electrolytes to deliver nice clear serums, shower gels and creams.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]
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The Modernisation of Cosmetic Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA) is the biggest shake up of cosmetic regulations in the USA since they were introduced in 1938. The new rules started to take effect from the start of 2023 and the industry is almost one year in. In his talk Iain Brunning from Exponent International will summarise the essentials of MoCRA, review the current implementation timetable and take a close look at the FDA Direct Portal for a new product listing and a renewal. Attendance is essential if you are selling or making products for the USA.
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Join us for an enlightening session on "2025 Beauty & Personal Care Trends," where we’ll delve into the future of the beauty industry and the transformative shifts on the horizon. As consumers become more informed and empowered, the industry is responding with innovative approaches that blend health, sustainability, and individuality. Discover how emerging technologies, climate-conscious practices, and a renewed focus on mental and emotional well-being are reshaping beauty standards and consumer expectations. This session will offer a glimpse into the trends that will define the next era of beauty, providing invaluable insights for brands and professionals looking to stay ahead of the curve.
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Discover with me the untapped potential of signaling Ceramides and Sphingolipids!
While Ceramides are well known for their barrier effect, their capabilities extend far beyond. Join me as I delve into the fascinating world of these signaling molecules, which influence cellular processes like immunomodulation, DNA protection and dermal scaffold strengthening
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As consumers are increasingly aware of the dangers of excessive sun exposure, and become more demanding of broad spectrum photoprotection, brands are challenged with building UV protection into Personal Care offerings -driving the trend for layering Sun Care across the different cosmetic segments. This ‘Sunnification’ trend blurs the lines between traditional Sun Care, Skin Care and Make-up.
The future of Sun Care merges technology and ecology, offering protection and well-being through formulas respectful of every skin type, consumer need and our planet.
Discover the BASF solutions for seamlessly weaving photoprotection into your daily ritual for an invisible shield against the ever-present sun. Beyond UV Filters!
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This session will cover 4x AI-powered tools from Gravel AI:
• Contract Manufacturer Intelligence - uncover OEMs used by fast growing brands.
• INCI List Scanner - enter an INCI list to find exact matches or similar products in the market.
• Product Name Keyword Analyser - uncover latest trends based on product name keywords.
• Ingredient Trends - track fast growing or fast declining ingredients based on ingredient type, applications and marketing claims.
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Curious about the buzz around exosomes in products? Join us for an exciting dive into the world of exosomes, extracellular vesicles, and particles.
We’ll break down on what exosomes are and decode terminology surrounding them. Discover the essential quality control measures that ensure product integrity. We’ll also highlight how to and how not to include them into your formulations. If you’re intrigued by cutting-edge innovation, this presentation will give you the tools to understand and harness the true power of exosomes.
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WELLBEING is the mega trend but how can skin care products make us feel positive about ourselves? Whilst it is more obvious for make-up, some active ingredients for skin care can make it happen. 💆♀️
“From cell-to-cell interactions to holistic wellbeing" will be presented by Croda’s Carola Schwaiberger at the SCS Formulate tradeshow in Coventry, UK on Nov. 13 at 11:30 am. A presentation not to be missed!
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Moving beyond sustainability, Neo-Ecology is emerging as a significant megatrend that will reshape various industries, including the beauty sector. It represents a shift from individual environmental awareness to a broader holistic view of what will be needed for the industry to continue to thrive in the future. In cosmetics, it will reshape ingredient manufacture and product development, impacting marketing strategies and elevating consumer expectations.
This inform seminar will dissect Neo-Ecology, explore its importance to the future personal care industry and explain how it can be implemented to develop truly purposeful products which support the needs and desires of the future beauty consumer.
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Geroscience showed that by targeting specific biological hallmarks, longevity extension is possible. Despite numerous studies, solutions are still needed to extend skin longevity. The objective here is to fill this gap and develop a natural active able to extend skin healthspan. Schisandrins are lignans acting on longevity hallmarks. An active enriched in these was developed from Schisandra chinensis berries. In vitro results showed that Schisandra extract (SchE) significantly increases longevity genes expression, autophagy and mitochondrial markers. In stressed 3D models, SchE restores skin barrier, reduces oxidation and inflammation. Clinically vs. placebo on multi-ethnic panels, SchE significantly increases skin microcirculation, elasticity and brightness and prevents wrinkles. As longevity is the result of the optimal functioning of interconnected biological activities, thanks to its multi-action on these, SchE is a potent solution to extend skin healthspan for a timeless beauty.
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Photodamage is responsible for 80% of skin damage and aging. However, Grant industries have the weapons to prevent and even reverse this damage. Some see our latest innovations in this area and learn how we can supercharge your formulas for maximum efficacy.
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Technical - have you ever wished NPD understood you more?
NPD – have you ever wished Technical understood you more?
There is a way! I will share the highs and lows of 25 years’ experience creating respectful, mutually beneficial and fun relationships in product development and the fantastic results that follow.
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Introducing Texique Lux5, the ideal choice for silicone free formulating!
A 100% naturally derived light emollient with exceptional spreading properties, quick absorption and silky dry after-feel, making it an ideal replacement for low viscosity silicones. Texique Lux5 can enhance the sensory feel of products by helping reduce greasiness of natural oils and provide conditioning benefits in hair care.
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Insights and research on the skin microbiome. Advances, limitations of pre, pro, postbiotics formulations. Dos and don'ts in skincare.
Sequential, The Skin Microbiome Testing CoTM. is the industry leader in microbiome testing, claims substantiation and support for brands formulating products for skin, scalp, intimate care and oral care. Recognised as the most significant testing solution in the industry, Sequential offers a full end-to-end platform from study design, recruitment and testing, to analysis, and support on formulation development and certification. Sequential’s testing is exclusively managed in-house and with human clinical subjects, in vivo.
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Make-up is “skinifying” at the same time skin-care is “make-upifying”. There are strong winds fuelling these trends as consumers are demanding more and more functionality from the products they are choosing to purchase, as they want to buy less, consume less, create less waste. Equally the demand for tic-tockable, instragram-able skin care products with “instant results” is increasing.
In this presentation we’ll talk about Kobo’s pigment and powder technologies that can be used to achieve these effects and show concept formulas.
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Curious about the buzz around exosomes in products? Join us for an exciting dive into the world of exosomes, extracellular vesicles, and particles.
We’ll break down on what exosomes are and decode terminology surrounding them. Discover the essential quality control measures that ensure product integrity. We’ll also highlight how to and how not to include them into your formulations. If you’re intrigued by cutting-edge innovation, this presentation will give you the tools to understand and harness the true power of exosomes.
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We will present a machine learning method to directionally predict/screen the sensory performance based on analytical measurements of novel product formulations. Our method aims to reduce the burden on costly sensory panel studies and streamline the new product development cycle by using appropriate product characterisation data. We demonstrate the effectiveness of our method on an industry dataset and show that it can achieve high accuracy and reliability in benchmarking new product formulations from a sensory perception perspective.
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BotaniDesign™ - Petrolatum alternative - Derived from nature
In the ever-evolving landscape of personal care, Cargill Beauty proudly introduces BotaniDesign™—a groundbreaking emollient that transcends industry standards. This revolutionary product serves as a derived natural and plant-based alternative to conventional petroleum jelly, embodying a commitment to sustainability, efficacy, and innovation.
BotaniDesign™ stands apart as a 100% derived natural and readily biodegradable emollient. In a world increasingly focused on eco-conscious choices, this product aligns seamlessly with the growing demand for sustainable beauty solutions.
As a vegetable-based drop-in replacement for petrolatum, BotaniDesign™ facilitates a 1:1 transition from petro-based products in emulsion formulations. This adaptability ensures a smooth transition for manufacturers seeking more sustainable alternatives without compromising performance.
Consumer study show that BotaniDesign™ performed comparably to white petrolatum across many categories. Subjects with positive responses found BotaniDesign™ to have similar effects during application and post-application including:
Ease of spread and absorbed into their skin as application
Smoothness and moisturization effects at the 2-minute post-application
Smoothness and moisturization effects after 6 hours of wear
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Tanning plus! Longer duration! Tanbest® DHA Premium delivers a deeper, more consistent tan while protecting your skin with mysterious oriental plant Poria Cocos. Experience enhanced tanning and lasting results.
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Emollients play a pivotal role in cosmetic formulations, imparting specific characteristics, performances, and a sensory appeal to the final product, thereby contributing to the creation of sophisticated textures. ROELMI HPC proudly introduces the EMotion® line, a range of sustainable emollients developed through upcycling and green chemistry processes. As a result of the company’s extensive know-how in natural ingredient development, a thorough analysis of the technical, performance, and sensory profiles of each emollient has been conducted. This approach aims to provide a comprehensive guide to formulators and facilitate the creation of unique and customized sensory experiences.
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The trend in hair care towards leave on conditioning products is bringing new opportunities for high performance and differentiated claims. Products from pump sprays to hair oils and serums provide exceptional delivery of hair conditioning without needing to be washed off.
Ingredients from both smart silicones and naturally derived feedstocks offer enhanced performance in terms of gloss, shine, anti-frizz and hydrophobicity building repair.
The presentation will cover the trending claims and the ingredient solutions to meet them.
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Tiffany and Denise will present our microplastics alternative technology called DAINTech.
DAINTech formulations demonstrate enhanced gel product stability and coating properties. We will also introduce the Edinburgh Complex Fluids Partnership which is the organisation that facilitates follow-up conversations and collaborative projects involving DAINTech.
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Shea is one of the most widely used natural emollients in skin care and is renowned for being kind to the skin and the planet. Shea trees grow wild in sub-Saharan Africa, helping to protect against climate change, and millions of women rely on the seasonal collection and sale of shea kernels to supplement their income and provide for their family needs.
However, not all shea-based emollients are created equal, and formulators can face several challenges when using shea butter in cosmetic applications. One of the key issues is its tendency to crystallize, which can lead to a grainy texture in finished products, requiring careful control of the melting and cooling process. And while shea butter is highly moisturizing, it can feel greasy or heavy on the skin, making it difficult to achieve the light, silky, silicone-like textures required for premium face products.
In this presentation, we explore how optimizing the physical and sensory characteristics of shea butter allows increased functional use across all cosmetic applications, including an interesterified variant with high thermal stability, an energy-saving liquid version that enables clear, sprayable formulations, and a shea-based ester offering the same functional and sensory properties as dimethicone. All the shea variants described are directly sourced from the women's groups engaged in the AAK Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing program in West Africa. They are also climate-compensated, which means product emissions have been calculated and offset with Gold Standard and Fairtrade carbon credits generated from an energy-saving cookstove project in Burkina Faso. These products offer unparalleled benefits regarding sustainability credentials and functionality, making them the ideal choice for eco-conscious, ethically sourced, high-performance cosmetic products.
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