Inspire – SCS Formulate 2017

Seminar List for Inspire

09:30 - 09:50

Formulating for the US and Canadian Market- as easy as 1-2-3

The US currently has the most robust economy in the world. With the strength of the dollar, there are tempting profits to be made by selling products in the US and Canada, its closest trading partner.

This presentation will cover how to formulate products for the US market, especially considering California regulations, since California is the 6th largest economy in the world on its own. Canada is a close trading partner under NAFTA and offers almost seamless product interface, when planning in advance. With a little bit of knowledge, compliance is even easier to accomplish than meeting the EU requirements.

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09:30 - 09:50

New actives and concepts from CLR Berlin

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09:50 - 10:10

Difficult roads often lead to beautiful destinations – Active Beauty innovations from IMCD

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09:50 - 10:10

The Future Of Plant Stem Cells

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10:10 - 10:30

Sodium Methyl Acyl Taurates Give High Performing Personal Cleansing Systems.

Sodium methyl acyl taurate surfactants are becoming popular for formulating high performing sulfate-free shampoos, shower gels and body washes, etc having global compliance. This presentation will cover formulating tips for achieving such systems using Innospec’s Pureact WS and Pureact MS taurate surfactants. It will also give details for formulating stable sodium methyl acyl taurate sulfate-free surfactant systems containing polymeric cationic conditioning agents, which have high conditioning efficacy.

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10:10 - 10:30

Using NaDES extraction technology to create a natural, sustainable , high-performance active: Gatuline® Link n Lift

Natural, non-toxic and efficient at low temperatures, the NaDES technology is perfectly aligned with the Gattefossé strategy to provide high-performance sustainable ingredients with positive environmental impact.

Speaker

  • Jamie Jones Personal Care Manager - Gattefossé UK Ltd
11:30 - 11:50

Oleoactif Lift®

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11:30 - 11:50

Trends in beauty and personal care, and the technologies that make them possible – volume 2

At SCS Formulate 2016 Surfachem introduced ‘Trends in beauty and personal care and the technologies that make them possible.’ Following considerable interest from attendees Surfachem intend to up the stakes in 2017 by creating a sequel.

This brand-new presentation builds on the ideas of the original by introducing a range of new trends have been identified as areas of future growth.

Surfachem’s presentation will focus on:

  • Market analysis of the personal care and cosmetics market
  • Insight into the most influential up and coming trends including intimate hygiene, active beauty and many more!
  • A formulation concept for each trend which showcases the latest and most innovative ingredient technologies available.
  • Technical description of the key ingredients within each concept and the features they contribute.

About Surfachem:

Surfachem Group, a 2M Holdings Ltd company, is an international speciality chemical distributor. Working in partnership with industry leading manufacturers, Surfachem deliver sustainable solutions to customers in over 65 countries by offering exceptional technical and logistical expertise.

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11:50 - 12:10

Adding value – trends, formulations and raw materials for a changing world

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11:50 - 12:10

Formulation of microbial safe products in a free from world

Microbial safety of cosmetic products is a challenge for formulators considering legal aspects as well as technical requirements and marketing trends. Public discussion additionally limits the number of accepted substances for microbial stabilization. In absence of new substances, which display in their main function to inhibit the development of microorganism, the cosmetic industry moves to multifunctional ingredients which either have a certain antimicrobial activity or are able to boost biocidal substances.

The presentation will illustrate market trends as well as the regulation challenges.

Speaker

  • Jana Ruffert Product Manager Personal Care - Schülke and Mayr UK Ltd
12:10 - 12:30

Hair Care – An alternative to split ends trimming: Solvay launches Polycare Split Therapy!

Nothing beats a fresh haircut to make hair look shinier and healthier. But a few weeks of multiple mechanical, chemical and thermal treatments cause split ends, that make hair unmanageable and lifeless.Thanks to Solvay’s new innovation, trimming split ends is no longer the only fix for damaged hair. Solvay introduces Polycare Split Therapy, a durable cure for split ends, that is vegetable-based, easy to process and compatible with shampoo, conditioners and serums. Long-lasting Polycare Split Therapy heals more than 80 percent of split ends with just the first application. Keep that fresh-haircut look longer, without the salon price!

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12:10 - 12:30

Where next for Claim Substantiation Testing? Thinking beyond lines and wrinkles to meet the needs of future consumers

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14:00 - 14:20

The two-in-one effect: added values of specific emulsifiers and surfactants

Specific surface-active components can create benefits for formulators if used correctly.
A rather new class of such molecules are so-called "gemini surfactants". One of those amino acid based functional ingredients is water-soluble but at the same time improves hydrophobicity of hairs. A reduction of hair drying time by 30% or avoiding a loss of tensile strength during hair coloration, hair waving and bleaching treatments are just some of the benefits. Additional topics in this presentation will be foam stabilization, specific antimicrobial efficacy and preservation boosting.

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  • Roman Ott Head of Application Laboratory Cosmetics - Rahn AG
14:00 - 14:20

The Water Paradox: Exploring novel formulations to meet diverse global trends

Formulators are constantly looking for the newest trends and how to design products to meet them. A rise in water shortage across the globe has led to many people seeking anhydrous solutions to their cosmetic needs, whilst a conflicting trend of increased water usage in products focusses on novel textures and hydrating claims. This presentation explores these water-based trends and the resultant formulatory opportunities.

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  • Felix Wilson Technical Development Chemist - Aston Chemicals
14:20 - 14:40

Novel Approaches to Environmental Protection

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14:20 - 14:40

Stop wasting time! Use our natural thickening agents

Stop wasting time! Use our natural thickening agents.

Thickening and gelling agents have a huge influence on the stability and the haptic feeling of cosmetic formulations. High stability, high transparency, fast solubility and less stickiness are typical requirements. COSMOS and vegan certification combined with excellent specified values are fast increasing demands. Cosphatec GmbH will present the great potential of our highly transparent Xanthan Gums Cosphaderm® X 34 and Cosphaderm® X soft as well as our natural gelling substance Cosphaderm® KG and their interaction which leads to elastic jelly gels.

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14:40 - 15:00

Reprogramming the skin for a youthful appearance

Epigenetic mechanisms have been studied in depth along the past decade due to their interesting ability to control gene activity beyond the information in the DNA sequence. Among the processes regulated at the epigenetic level are epidermal renewal and homeostasis.

 

Epidermal basal cells (consisting of stem and progenitor cells) have the ability to proliferate, giving rise to cells that then follow a process of differentiation into mature keratinocytes. This capacity to replenish the tissue is maintained by the transcription factors OCT4, SOX2 and KLF4, which are stem cell markers. Activity of these genes is regulated at the epigenetic level by microRNAs. Concretely, microRNA-145 is known to repress the activity of these three stem cell transcription factors, causing basal cells to stop dividing. As a result, the cells leave the basal layer and start the differentiation process, involving changes in the expression of characteristic epidermal markers.

 

Lipotec was inspired by epigenetics and microRNAs to develop REPROAGE™ peptide, a cosmetic active ingredient that can help skin regeneration properties last longer. The ingredient reduces the levels of the key regulator microRNA-145 and increases the typical factors of basal cells, suggesting the reprograming of cells and a subsequent reactivation of the pool of epidermal progenitors.

 

The application of the cosmetic ingredient in volunteers was associated with a faster epidermal self-renewal, at a rate equivalent to that of more than a decade younger skin. Also an

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14:40 - 15:00

Serdex and its supply chain in Madagascar

SERDEX, an affiliate of SEPPIC Group, and its supply chain in Madagascar. It has discovered the potential activities of Centella asiatica since the sixties. It is committed to an ethical business approach towards local suppliers, populations & institutions in Madagascar and for many years in the internationally recognized Ethical BioTrade Standards which fully reflects the ABS principles in the CBD & the Nagoya Protocol.

SERDEX is a pioneer in implementing proactively best practices on fair & equitable benefit sharing in Madagascar with its achievements in sustainable developement projects.

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16:00 - 16:20

Skin Nutrition: Relying on Nature’s Expertise

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16:00 - 16:20

Thermolat® – Smart Warming from Symrise

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16:20 - 16:40

fiberhance BM solution, for internal hair strengthening and bonding

FiberHance™ bm solution is a molecule designed to penetrate the hair fiber and provide superior strengthening in shampoos and other hair care products by using cost-effective technology. This molecule is based on glucoside chemistry and creates new ionic and hydrogen bonds inside hair fibers, to strengthen with each wash and give back natural manageability. It is compatible with color treatment systems to strengthen hair during and after coloring, and to repair hair fibers that have been damaged by chemical treatments. It helps to strengthen all hair types, including Caucasian, Asian and African American.

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16:20 - 16:40

-LUPALINE®: let you skin enjoy daily sun exposure while remaining protected.

Precious molecules from Wheat Germ oil combined with Lupin Oil bring high protection to skin cells DNA as well as skin cells membranes towards harmful effects of UV rays. It thus prevents cells functions and cells exchanges within the skin even in case of UV stress.

a-LUPALINE® helps to preserve skin elasticity, one of the most impacted skin mechanical property by sun exposure (solar elastosis).

The complementary anti-oxidant benefits makes a-LUPALINE® an excellent ingredient to prepare the skin to sun exposure, ideal to include in anti-aging skin care, SPF daily care or sun care.

Please come and visit us at booth 515 to discover the new data available on this ingredient.

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16:40 - 17:00

Capitalizing on thickening, suspending and gelling properties of natural polymers to create innovative textures

Safic-Alcan has developed its own range of natural texturizing agents including xanthans, carrageenans, alginates, a guar, a carob and specific mixtures of those ingredients. In the conference, the technical characteristics of a mixture of carob and xanthan and of carrageenans will be discussed in order to better understand their potential thickening, suspending and gelling properties. Technical advices on how to formulate these ingredients in cosmetic products in order to obtain innovative textures will also be given.

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16:40 - 17:00

Cleanse, Detoxify Protect: The Next Generation of Anti-Pollution Actives

Sulfur biology is an untapped, relatively undiscovered sector of cosmetic science, holding potential for novel anti-ageing and anti-pollution claims. Investigations into the protective mechanisms of a microalgae, which flourishes in polluted waters following an underwater volcano eruption, led us to the co-culturing of Crypthecodinium Cohnii with a sulfur rich growth media. This process allows for the extraction of specific sulfated polysaccharides which in turn can up regulate glutathione concentrations when applied topically.  Glutathione is a potent antioxidant that works to protect against cellular and external environmental pollution defending the skin against both extrinsic and intrinsic stress.

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09:30 - 09:50

Lab Reactors for scaling from Lab to Production

09:30 - 09:50

Measuring the antioxidant capacity of vegan products and their ingredients with the ABEL-RAC-Vegan™ Antioxidant Test.

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09:50 - 10:10

Activys® where delivery systems become active ingredients

A revolutionary platform for active delivery in any type of skin, but the best system for sensitive skin or for any cosmetic application associated with inflammatory processes. The system is completely natural, marine derived from deep sea algae’s Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids. This provides a flexible structure which allows greater penetration to spread the assets in deep layers of the skin. The first two off the shelf delivery systems we have created are for Anti-Pollution & Anti-Glycation.

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09:50 - 10:10

Solexyl, a novel cosmetic compound for UV protection

UV, and especially UV-B, are extremely noxious for the skin as they can cause DNA damage, inflammation, free radicals production, and cell death. In order to defend itself against these sun rays, skin developed protections such as melanin and urocanic acid. These natural chromophores are capable of absorbing UV and therefore to reduce their damage. However, while absorbing UV they also generate free radicals and may cause skin immuno-suppression.

Here we show how Solexyl, a nature-inspired cosmetic active, is capable of negating the UV-induced skin damage while also preventing the side effects of the skin endogenous protectors.

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10:10 - 10:30

Discover our new Rheomer® Low pH designed to meet consumer needs for transparent rinse off products.

Sensory (aesthetics, product texture...) keeps growing as a differentiating attribute. Following the massive shift to preservation with organic acids, many rheological ingredients — essential to sensory — have become inadequate, giving rise to new formulation challenges. Concurrently, skin types with specific needs (such as sensitive, dry, eczema-prone, or oily/acne-prone or simply ageing) are on the rise, and require acidic pH treatments with pleasing textures. Solvay presents this new rheological agent that performs in acidic pH : Rheomer® Low pH.

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10:10 - 10:30

Targeting beauty trends with innovative solutions

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11:30 - 11:50

Compelling Silicone Film Formers for Various Personal Care Applications.

Silicone resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicate and acrylates/dimethicone copolymer can be blended with various silicone and non-silicone carriers to modify their properties to make them a perfect fit for specific personal care applications. This presentation will cover the features and benefits of Innospec’s silicone film formers and silicone film former blends for applications in a wide range of product types. It will feature Specsil K-80 which is a novel trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethcone blend which forms clear, smooth flexible films having no stress cracks and excellent resistance to rub-off, water and sebum.

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11:30 - 11:50

Hair Necessities & Launches from Croda

Our hair is a powerful medium for expressing our individuality and, as a result, we often inadvertently torture it to achieve the perfect ‘look’. With everything from bleaching and colouring to even everyday combing and styling imparting damage onto the hair fibre, it is necessary to provide protection to ensure that a short-term look doesn’t have longer-term implications. Join Croda as we explore our latest innovations in hair care, exploring novel ways to protect and repair hair damage.

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11:50 - 12:10

New insights into collagens: Fibre collagen I and physiologically active collagen XVIII

Fibroblasts synthesize numerous important dermal building blocks such as the large structuring components hyaluronic acid, elastic fibres and collagens. Especially the versatile collagens play a key role in skin physiology. Meanwhile, consumers are well familiar with the term “collagen” that has positive connotations, and they realised that there is not one kind of collagen in the skin only.

Due to its high share in the dermis, collagen I takes on a special position. Stimulating the synthesis can contribute to an increase of firmness and help to slow down skin aging. Dermagenist™ supports each of the four major steps in the synthesis of collagen I, including both intra- and extracellular processes. The final formation stage involves the enzyme LOXL1, responsible of the assembly of precursor molecules to long fibres. BASF Beauty Creations found out that the release of LOXL1 is impacted by an epigenetic mechanism. Dermagenist™, a Cosmos-approved marjoram extract rich in vicenin and luteolin-7-0-glucuronide, strongly stimulates the investigated synthesis steps. As result, Dermagenist™ increases skin density as well as skin firmness.

Besides collagens that play a pure mechanical role, there are also forms that additionally participate in physiological processes. Among them, collagen XVIII is unique: it is the only collagenous proteoglycan with biological activity that is present in all skin layers. BASF Beauty Creations discovered that Collagen XVIII is decreasing with age. Collalift™18 stimulates the production of this specific substance, both in the dermal-epidermal junction and in the basement membrane of adipocytes. Clinical studies demonstrated an increase of skin elasticity, an improvement of the skin homogeneity and a reduction of wrinkles. Collalift™18 is a Cosmos-approved extract from the bark of African Mahogany, sourced in Burkina Faso under monitored conditions.

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11:50 - 12:10

Taking total Protection into the Blue

Consumers are exposed to blue light nearly everywhere and every day, either by sunlight or by artificial blue light from electronic devices. Recent studies have shown that blue light penetrated deep into the skin and therefore can damage all skin layers. DSM´s “Total Protection into the Blue” concept is based on two complementing formulations for Total Protection, Outdoor & Indoor. Based on scientific findings, DSM developed strong claim substantiation based on cutting edge technologies: UV-filter(s) that also block blue light, selective vitamins counteracting oxidative stress and a new microalga (Scenedesmus rubescence) derived bioactive that stimulates skin´s own defense.

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12:10 - 12:30

Beauty Evolution-Staying ahead of Curve

Navigating the beauty section in your favorite store or clicking through the latest product launches is a daunting task as a consumer.  Today’s beauty offering is huge and capturing the consumer is a difficult task.  We will explore the next generation technologies available and in development that will shape the future of beauty.

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12:10 - 12:30

PolyAquol™ – technology for natural and efficient emulsions

Through years of research, Innovacos has developed an expertise in polyglycerol technology.  This knowhow led to a new generation of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers known as PolyAquol™.

The first member of the PolyAquol™ family, PolyAquol™-2W, is a patent pending O/W self-emulsifier.  PolyAquol™-2W possesses a wide range of formulation compatibility while providing a unique skin feel to emulsions.  On a more functional level, PolyAquol™-2W can generate highly organized liquid crystals important to provide stability to the emulsion and to ensure compatibility with the skin.  Clinically, PolyAquol™-2W was shown to prevent and repair damage caused to the skin barrier function by UV exposure.

PolyAquol™-OS2 is the second member of the PolyAquol™ line.  PolyAquol™-OS2 can generate W/O emulsions endowed with a very light texture and skin feel.  Its  molecular arrangement provides strong emulsifying properties without the need of co-emulsifiers and it can advantageously be used also for cold-processed emulsions.  It is perfectly suited for sunscreen and makeup formulations containing powders and pigments.

Both, PolyAquol™-2W and PolyAquol™-OS2 emulsifiers are all naturally derived with Ecocert and Cosmos approvals.

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14:30 - 14:50

Eosidin™: Controlling atopic-prone skin conditions caused by indoor pollution

Your home is surrounded by indoor pollution which triggers irritation process and leads to atopic-prone skin conditions. People are subjected to two to five times more contaminants indoor than outdoor.

Eosidin™ is the first active ingredient targeting indoor pollution, and tackling skin immuno-modulation to avoid atopic-prone skin conditions and hypersensitivity. Eosidin™ is a well characterized extract of unripe citrus unshiu, coming from the wonderful and protected reserve of Jeju Island in Korea.

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14:30 - 14:50

Skin Secrets from Asia

In recent times, a growing demand for products that purport to enhance skin tones and restore a youthful appearance by minimizing, or avoiding wrinkle formation has become a phenomenon in Asian countries like China, Korea, Japan, and India. With increasing awareness, there is a rising population of beauty-conscious individuals looking-out for alternative to conventional topical skin care delivery systems that are reliable, natural & safe, and cost-efficient as well. This has caused a significant remoteness against prescription medications and high-cost medical procedures, as more people are leaning towards natural alternatives.

Sabinsa has come up with several innovative cosmeceutical products that represent a perfect blend of art and science. A few of ingredients that fulfil specific personal care needs of beauty-seekers include SabiWhite, Saberry, Tetrahydrocurcuminoids (THCs), Cococin, Artonox, PteroWhite, Licorice extract, and Ellagic acid (for skin lightening effect), and Boswellin Super, Sage extract, Sodium Ursolate and Venocin.

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14:50 - 15:10

IMCD Presentation

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14:50 - 15:10

Wellness For Beauty: Advancing the Story

Wellness has grown to become a synonym of beauty, as beauty buyers embrace wellness. Consumers understand that skin appearance is also impacted by exposure to daily environment and various aspects of modern lifestyles.  Increasing levels of physical activity, reducing stress levels, minimising the impact of pollution and free radicals, looking after personal wellbeing are considered of vital steps for an effective beauty routine.

The concept of looking and feeling good is drawing closer: notions of de-stress and recharge, creating energy through the experience of an indulging face, body and hair care rituals. Following the successful launch of the "Looking Good Feeling Great" Creative Concept at in-cosmetics Global 2017, Brenntag are expanding the narrative of the Wellness for Beauty story and are developing new formulations to be unveiled at SCS Formulate.

More information on the formulations under the Creative Concept can be found on   http://www.brenntag.com/uk-ireland/en/brenntag-uk-and-ireland/media/wellness-for-beauty-advancing-the-story.jsp

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15:10 - 15:30

Epigenetics

Our body, including the skin and its appearance, is the result of our gene expressions. Epigenetics is the study of the biological mechanisms involved in the regulation of gene activity without altering their sequence. Epigenetic changes happens regular and naturally but can also be influenced by several factors including the age, environmental factors like UV radiation, pollution, the lifestyle, the emotions, some diseases…

Epigenetics opens a new door to ingredients that can influence our skin genes epigenetically . Epigenetics is a new paradigm in the Science of Anti Aging. Via epigenetic mechanisms, genes can be modulated to get involved in regulatory processes such as: Cell cycles, DNA repair systems, Reactions to oxidative stress, Inflammation, Hair growth stimulation, Skin regeneration, etc.

Cobiosa’s R&D continuous research, has developed new assays on the epigenetic action of three of its ingredients: COBIODEFENDER EMR, DRAGON’S BLOOD & GLYCOENERGIZER HAIR

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15:10 - 15:30

Navigating Naturals

Let’s face it: Natural is all the rage. Whether it’s what we eat, what we put on our bodies or what we use in our homes, people everywhere are making a choice to go natural.

But as formulators how can we meet expected natural and ethical regulations ensuring our personal care products are at the level of ‘natural’ that consumers expect? And what certifications are out there?

As part of the Cornelius Inspire programme, Trevor Barker will present ‘Navigating Naturals’ – a guide to several certification bodies including Cosmos, ISO Natural Standard, Halal, Vegan, Nordic Swan, Fair Trade; RSPO and Palm Free.

Speaker

  • Trevor Barker Technical Business Development Manager - Cornelius Group Plc