Inspire Seminars

How the chemistry of natural materials affects the function & feel of your ingredients. Understanding how parameters such as polarity, functional groups, chain length & branching affect performance will help to make choosing the right naturally derived material easy!

Suga®Citrate L1C represents Colonial Chemical Inc's cutting-edge advancement in alkyl polyglucoside (APG) derivatization technology. This innovative APG-Citrate formula utilizes entirely renewable resources while preserving the commendable attributes of its predecessors, Suga®Nate and Poly Suga®Nate, including low skin and eye irritation and a favorable ecological toxicity profile. By transforming nonionic Lauryl Glucoside into an anionic surfactant, this technology broadens the scope and efficacy of APGs. It notably augments viscosity when used alongside traditional secondary surfactants. Furthermore, when combined with traditional anionic surfactants, Suga®Citrate L1C has been proven to reduce the potential for skin irritation in formulations, particularly in conjunction with amphoterics. This enables the creation of exceptionally gentle cleansing products that deliver the desired foam and viscosity for consumers. Formulators no longer need to compromise between high foam, gentleness, and consumer-friendly ingredient labels; all of these aspects can be achieved with the versatile Suga®Citrate L1C.

Suga®Citrate is available for use in numerous regions across the globe, encompassing North America, Europe/UK (REACH registration), ANZ (notified introduction), and the majority of Asian markets. Should you require a COSMOS-compliant variant, please don't hesitate to inquire. This product has earned a 100% biobased certification from the USDA BioPreferred program and boasts excellent biodegradability with minimal environmental impact.

Additional information can be found at https://colonialchem.com/products/sugacitrate-l1c/ or email info@colonialchem.com

Introducing the latest addition to the new member of the Remastered Fragments line from the wild plants as biofactories technology platform designed to enhance the V-neckline beauty.

Human skin is a complex organ which performs several important functions, many of which are essential for human health and homeostasis. The skin is also colonised by diverse populations of microorganisms known as the skin microbiome or more properly as the skin microbiota. The role of the microbiota in skin health is still an emerging area of scientific investigation, however it is known to play an important role in many vital physiological functions. An imbalance in the skin microbiota know as dysbiosis is associated with several human diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.

 Many topically applied cosmetic products contain ingredients such as preservatives and surfactants with the potential to alter the composition and function of the skin microbiota potentially leading to dysbiosis. Here at Melbec Microbiology we offer a sensible step wise testing approach to evaluate the impact of cosmetic ingredients and products on the skin microbiota. We are also looking to the future of skin microbiome testing, specifically in the areas of metatranscriptomics and metabolomics to not only evaluate the composition of the skin microbiota but also its function.

This presentation will go through the opportunities that represent plant roots for the development of new molecules beneficial for the skin, that can respond to consumer needs and recent marketing trends. While roots are currently underexplored due to the difficulties to access them sustainably, Clariant has been able to develop a range of 4 active ingredients sustainably sourced from plant roots thanks to the Plant Milking technology: a powerful anti-aging active, a universal skin energy booster, a dark-circles eraser and a sunlight-mimicking active to relax mood and skin.

Key Takeaways:

• Plant Milking is a responsible way to produce powerful active ingredients with unique features and positioning
• Clariant Actives & Natural Ingredients offer a range of root-powered actives to respond to the current and future customers needs and market trends

Hair is an integral part of our identity, making us different, unique. Preserving the strength of our hair is essential, hair is the mirror of our health.
Dense, strong and shiny hair is a sign of healthy beauty.
The new microalgae active, Natura-Tec SeaRenew shows a significant effect on the proliferation of human follicle dermal papilla fibroblasts which are the cells involved in hair growth regulation. This is a cell proliferation inducer of hair follicle fibroblasts, confirming its huge potential to promote hair growth and strength, NT Searenew will act on your scalp in record time to re-densify the hair and reduce hair loss.
In addition to being super efficient, this active seduces with its process of obtaining, using green energy produced by a closed circuit waste recycling system where the resulting CO2 is purified and fed as an essential metabolic element. For the microalgae guaranteeing the entire process the lowest possible carbon footprint.
This environmentally friendly process makes our greenhouse a state-of-the-art, energy-independent sustainable production unit.

To internally combat the effects of aging and fill in depleted tissue, the skin must continually regenerate and renew itself. Skin regeneration spontaneously occurs during the healing process, but the associated biological mechanisms are disrupted with age. The objective of this study was to evaluate the ability of a natural extract of myrtle and olive leaves to activate the natural healing pathways during aging by RT-qPCR and protein immunolabelling methods. Highly concentrated in antioxidant and repairing Phytoside™ (myricitrin, oleuropein), this Oléo-éco-extract is the first of its kind. The study showed that, when applied to the skin, this bio-inspired ingredient modulates innovative key genes and proteins of cell defense, stem cells mobilization, epidermal regeneration, and dermal remodeling. As a result, age marks are counter-balanced, and the skin regains a younger architecture. FILL Oléoactif® clinically showed a high ability to fill out wrinkles and smooth the skin for a Fill-good look!
It is China compliant, COSMOS-certified, 100% natural origin (ISO16128) and vegan-compatible.

TRI-K's "Revive Your Hair with Vegan Protein Care" presentation showcases our commitment to excellence in hair care. Our latest innovations in hydration and anti-pollution efficacy directly respond to consumer trends, making them the ideal choice for those seeking cutting-edge hair care solutions. Join us in exploring the future of hair care and how TRI-K can elevate your hair care experience to new heights.

Key Takeaways:

• EssentiaTein Protect: Anti-pollution Protection
• Fision HydraTress - Clean Moisture Balance For Hydrated Hair
• NaturePep Amaranth - Healthier, Fuller-Looking Hair

Within the anti-aging skin care field, peptides are one of the most sought-after solutions due to their well-defined chemical, analytical, and physicochemical properties as well as specificity in mechanism of action. Now, a new, naturally-derived peptide has been developed by following the principles of green chemistry, without compromising performance. Inspired by electrical stimulation, this high performance peptide has been shown to mimic the benefits of microcurrent devices. Analysis of facial features in both male and female panelists who used the peptide showed a ‘triorbital’ skin lift, demonstrating a complete upper face lifted appearance with marked improvements in the eyebrow, eyelid, and cheek. Treatment with the peptide also minimized the appearance of wrinkles after only one week. Clinical efficacy was comparable to using a commercially available microcurrent device over the same period, supporting the claim of a microcurrent-like effect.

Energy is at the base of every single living process and therefore it is also at the base of our skin's cellular processes. Usually, consumers associate the word "energize" with a skin refresh and a younger look but it has actually a deeper impact. For this reason, we at RAHN-Cosmetic Actives have decided to unveil the secrets behind the energizing process from a biological perspective for skin and hair, emphasising the benefit to consumers.

Total wellbeing, the right balance between physical-social & mental wellness, is under extensive quest.

A perfect skin glow, combining hydration, firmness and brightness, is key to accomplish total wellness.

Using performing actives, the Beauty Industry can offer effective skincare to protect against environmental stresses, i.e. the exposome, and combat skin imperfections and skin aging processes.

Sytheon is a leading supplier of innovative, highly standardized and performing active ingredients helping to reach such goals.

We present two approaches to offer Total Skin-Care products:

• The first path is natural, minimalist but holistic. Synastol®TC, a highly standardized extract from chebula fruit known as Haritaki the king of Ayurvedic medicine, shows hydrating, brightening and anti-wrinkles effects;
• Then a highly integrative scheme combines three of our best performing molecules with complementary activities: hydration(Hydra Synol®DOI, Isosorbide dicaprylate); anti-aging (Synoxyl®AZ, Acetyl Zingerone) and; brightening (Synovea®HR, HexylResorcinol); to abolish imperfections, fight against aging processes and offer the most perfect skin glow.

Because a healthy, good looking skin is pillar to confidence and ultimately total wellbeing, choose the most effective and innovative actives for your formulations.

Following previous SCS Formulate presentations about solid and water-free formats, I will be talking about “Solidification”. This new technology allows for the formulation of solid water-free shampoo and conditioner bars using the same raw materials that are used in conventional liquid formulations!

Join us as we follow our skins journey during the hormonal highs and lows of our lives; We will be focusing on the many changes it undergoes and creating a beauty routine that prioritises its’ specific needs at each stage we encounter.

What are some of the key drivers influencing the future of the personal care market?

Delving into Surfachem’s 2024 trends forecast will be two of our in-house Personal Care experts, Jason Dearden-Watts and Brindley Spinks, who will explore the latest trends, raw materials and formulations, flooding the market.

We will deep dive into how we can translate the latest themes of consumer products into reality, including the forecast for 3 personal care categories: oral care, washing & bathing and food-influenced products.

This talk will outline a game changer for evaluating actives and formulations. A revolution in non-invasive skin sampling means Cutest can now directly measure the effects of topical actives and formulations on gene expression, proteomics and more, in standard clinical studies on volunteers. Where we previously  had to rely on cells in culture or reconstructed skin models, with their flaws and limitations, Cutest can now make the same measurements on the face, hand or any other body site. Using our revolutionary technique, we can evaluate whether an active has the same impact on real people as it shows in vitro.: does it penetrate the skin?; does it lead to the gene and protein expression changes it exhibits in vitro? We will share data on well known actives to explain how you can develop the next generation of higher performance products, based on proven clinical benefits in vivo to ensure products deliver real consumer perceivable results. In addition, we will explain how this innovation allows you to understand how skin changes with age, environmental insult, menopause or many other factors and how products impact this in the real world (not the petri dish).

Be inspired to create hybrid, cross category products with both innovation and efficacy at their core. We will demonstrate how to introduce activity to traditionally inactive products, as well as how to get the most out of your ingredients by generating claims from your base formulation.

Acne is an awful disease and fortunately, cosmetics can help a lot to treat acne-prone skin. However, traditional approaches often overlook the skin microbiome. By acknowledging that acne is also a disease of the skin microbiome, we can develop better treatments with surprising results. How can you do this? Make sure to join Partick Gonry of Gobiotics at SCS Formulate 2023 to unlock the acne-microbiome.

What happens when we encapsulate a probiotic in an anti-microbial sanitizer? What are the microbial signatures and dermotypes in Atopic Dermatitis? How does the skin microbiome change during ageing over 300 subjects from Europe and Asia? How are CSTs related to intimate area microbiome product development? Since launching the world’s first at home skin Microbiome + Genetics test in 2019, Sequential has been on a path to fully uncover how the microbiome and gene expression signatures relates to skin, scalp, and vaginal microbiome health. Sequential has worked with 60+ clients to support their clinical testing, and help them characterise the effect of their microbiome products on the microbiome in vivo, allowing for rigorous scientific R&D, claims support and substantiation. Please join Oliver’s talk to hear the answers to these questions and other exciting advances in molecular clinical testing.

Sequential is an industry leader in consumer microbiome testing for skin, scalp, and female health. Being named the most significant testing solution in the industry in 2022 and has worked with over 60 clients. Sequential has amassed a valuable dataset of over 30,000 clinical skin samples, 4000 topical ingredients and formulations tested on them, and strain-level quantitative microbiome analysis to fully characterise skin and intimate health.

With Sequential labs in NYC, London and Singapore, they are positioning themselves to be a global leader in the microbiome, mining a growing database for novel biomarkers and actives that will improve human health. Having become profitable in 2023, Sequential is now looking to raise capital to expand to further reduce costs of goods, and scale internationally. They are backed by Corundum Systems Biology, SOSV, Scrum Ventures, Metaplanet Holdings, Enterprise Singapore, Genedant Holdings, Royal Academy of Engineering and Innovate UK.

Upcycling is one of the elements of a much wider topic: the circular economy, which is not really a new concept. Before industrialization, food production was considered to be circular due to its own nature. Traditional farming culture did not tolerate waste, everything was considered usable: “Waste not want not”.

Today the circular economy is being re-evaluated in a modern context where the sustainability of resources and processes is again a key point for a fairer development of the society and the protection of the environment.

Through the upcycling of by-products from excellent Italian agri-food production, Phenbiox has developed several active ingredients for cosmetics based on our innovative Hyperfermentation processes able to boost the efficacy of these actives.

Hair damage is a major concern among consumers that are looking for repair and protection. Hair is mainly composed of proteins, whose composition and structure is impacted by daily stressors like grooming and harsh treatments (heat, chemicals). This leads to changes of the mechanical properties, less resistance and strength of the hair fiber, and more breakage.

SymProt’in™ Oat is a new natural active, concentrated in biomimetic oat peptides. Obtained through enzymatic extraction technology, it has a unique tailor-made composition profile, with adaptative efficacy on hair.
Because of their very small molecular weight, the selected oat peptides deeply penetrate into the cortex and their polarity enable to target the damaged sites within the hair. SymProt’in™ Oat will link and stay into the cortex even after rinsing, to help restore the structural integrity of the hair fiber and bring mass restoration.

Thus, the ingredient is improving hair strength and resistance, for less breakage and anti-fatigue action. Tensile test, breakage assessment and anti-fatigue test have been conducted with different levels of hair damage.

This new active is perfectly answering the demand of the market for natural and sustainable solutions, with proven efficacy on hair damage, one of the top concerns for consumers globally.

Key Takeaways:
Adaptive peptides for deep penetration in hair
Mass restoration for all levels of hair damage
Peptide retention within the cortex leads to long term effective repair
Rescues damaged hair
Improve hair strength & resistance
Decrease hair breakage

Dub G-Smart is a multifunctional ingredient developed from our R&D department. Thanks to its unique feel, dub G-Smart has a touch equivalent to dimethicone 20, but its greatest properties are its functionalities:

- amphiphilic solubilizer

- anti soaping agent

- cleansing booster

We will be delighted to present it to you on the stand of our distributor Lehvoss or during the reading.

The concept of pro-aging has gained momentum as a counter-movement to the anti-aging narrative.  Pro-aging advocates embracing aging gracefully and promoting products and lifestyles that support healthy aging – being the best version of oneself!  At the same time, greener production processes such as fermentation have gained significant attention owing to their sustainability as well as ability to yield effective actives.  The need: a beauty regimen supporting specific skin needs. The solution: two well-known hero ingredients with proven efficacy and based on biotechnology. Our SKINMIMICS® PRO MB consisting of a powerful combination of long chain ceramides and bioactive ceramides offers a premium solution for healthy aging.  By using our deep understanding of molecular biology and fermentation processes, we engineer yeast strains to produce our new vegan collagen to fortify the skin’s collagen deeper within the extracellular matrix. Together, Evonik’s ceramide and vegan collagen solutions bring effective and sustainable options for the pro-aging consumer.

Learning outcomes

Evolution of highly relevant marketing claims, and the importance of sourcing and production process to fulfil customer needs.

Cationic Amino Lipid Technology: Breakthrough Conditioning for Sustainable Hair Care

Consumers prioritize sustainable and safe hair care products without compromising performance. Traditional hair care products rely on quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) to achieve high-performance results. However, these industry-standard conditioning ingredients cannot be derived from all natural ingredients and are known to cause skin and eye irritation and aquatic toxicity.

Plant-based cationic amino lipids present a compelling solution as they are readily biodegradable, non-toxic to aquatic life, and pose no risk of irritation to the skin and eyes. They exhibit exceptional performance on all hair types, delivering desirable conditioning, anti-static, curl definition, and hair strengthening benefits. Most recently, a unique combination of Brassicyl Valinate Esylate with Cetearyl Alcohol was shown to have equivalent hair conditioning performance to Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) on European, Chinese, and Curly Multi-Ethnic hair types. Amino lipids also meet growing consumer-desired claims including 100% natural, amino acid derived, weightless conditioning, and luxury textures.

The Inolex cationic amino lipid technology platform offers a comprehensive and innovative approach to sustainable and high-performance hair care. These novel hair care systems reduce environmental impact and enhance safety, allowing the development of hair care products that meet the evolving demands of conscious consumers.

Enjoy the power of our holistic active ingredient EPIONINE®Bio, extracted from Camellia oleifera seeds.

Acting both on the skin & mind, EPIONINE®Bio improves your emotional state and your self-confidence for a global well-being.

Protecting your skin from IN & OUT stress for a day-to-day comfort, EPIONINE®Bio provides an overall feeling of serenity!

The Secrets of Caledonia will introduce their new product, Brown Energy, that is an innovative extract made from three sustainably hand-harvested organic seaweeds, grown in harsh but clean conditions in North-Eastern Scotland. They are channeled wrack, egg wrack, and sea spaghetti, chosen as each of these have grown at different zones of the beach- and shoreface. These species have evolved to tolerate different environmental stressors: channeled wrack, which grows on the beach face, dries at low tide and is submerged at high tide; eggwrack, which grows on the upper shoreface, is under shear stress caused by the constant waves; and sea spaghetti grows at the lower shoreface where light is in short supply. They present a unique combination of minerals, polysaccharides, and omega-3 fatty acids, all of which have long been known to be very good for skin health. I will talk about its remarkable skincare efficacies, and demonstrate that Brown Energy can make your skin healthy, strong and youthful.

We face an increasing demand for cold process formulations. This may be due to high energy costs, environmental impacts or manufacturing capabilities. When this is combined with a sulfate free brief this can cause challenges for the formulator. Join us to understand how to transform your sulfate free cleansing formulations with Innospec's cold processable anionic surfactants.

Describing a sensory with neutral feedback excluding personal judgement or variation of perception due to external conditions or cultural background is very complex, even for trained experts. However, a sensory is always the sum or the synergy of individual basic parameters.

Learn today about IOI Oleo’s simple method to break complex sensations into standardized, measurable, and objective parameters.

Key Takeaways:
Choose your emollients in three easy steps and design your Signature Touch in no time. In addition to polarity and spreading behavior, learn about the six simple parameters (such as penetration or film forming) that can be used to categorize all kinds of emollients. Experience the simplicity of this method directly at the booth of our partner Safic Alcan. Streamline the communication between marketing and R&D and shorten the time-to-market with the effective language of Sensorial Technologies.

BDI-BioLife Science has combined the power of nature with innovative technologies to develop a must-have ingredient for anti-ageing products.  ASTACOS^® OL50, also known as red diamond, is a natural ingredient containing algae-based astaxanthin.

Astaxanthin, an exceptionally powerful antioxidant, has been shown in extensive studies to reduce skin damage caused by free radicals, improve biological cell protection and maintain oxidative balance.

Discover how to formulate microplastic-free. ECHA’s most recent proposal to ban microplastics that are defined as any substance that is smaller than 5mm and present at 0.01% by weight in any cosmetic products, creates a demanding project for cosmetic formulators to redevelop their products to be microplastic-free. This is not about the plastic microbeads that were banned in 2018 as the new proposal will include many substances such as functional polymers. There are many alternatives in the market however, they often lack good sensorial properties, stabilising capability or do not meet the naturality standards of the cosmetics market.

With this in mind, Technical Sales Manager, Kulvinder Kaur will be presenting new technology cellulose that can be used as a biodegradable solution with multifunctional uses in personal care formulations.

Key Takeaways: Finding biodegradable and sustainable solutions to microplastics.

Miniproteins are a new class of Active Cosmetic Ingredient, one we expect grow rapidly, as peptides have over the last two decades. These molecules are small enough to penetrate into our skin and long enough to keep their protein features (affinity & specificity). We say that they are the sweet spot between proteins and small chemical compounds. In this presentation we shall be explaining this new class of active ingredient, together with introducing new clinical studies for XEP® 716, a potent growth factor which exhibits fantastic TGF-B activity.

Sensitive skin is a common skin condition which affect more than 50% of people and is characterized by high reactivity to environmental and internal factors. Indeed, sensitive skin could be manifestation of intensive sun exposure, urban pollution, mechanical stress, but also psychological stress and hormonal disorders. People affected by this condition may experience skin redness, irritation, inflammation, premature aging, degenerative processes and other adverse reactions.
Skin Save™ , a powder product of the Bionap cosmetic line, is an ingredient created specifically for sensitive skin to counteract skin inflammation, redness and irritation. It consists of a blend of three botanical extracts obtained from co-products of the agro-alimentary industry: Opuntia ficus-indica cladodes, Capparis spinosa and Olea europaea leaves. In particular, polysaccharides from Opuntia ficus-indica provide moisturization and repairing effect, Olive biophenols have a soothing action and Caper flavonoids confer a desensitizing effect. The beneficial effects of the product have been demonstrated by 4 clinical studies in which Skin Save™ has been shown to reduce skin redness and discomforts caused by mechanical stress (epilation/shaving), inflammation and discomforts associated to chemical irritation, skin erythema induced by radiotherapy treatment and to counteract solar aggression preventing from premature aging.

Peptides are a popular ingredient category due to their benefits in stimulating collagen production, improving skin texture and reducing fine lines and wrinkles, amongst others.

Specialized in active ingredients based on plant stem cell technology, Vytrus Biotech will present its proposal to bring a new generation of natural plant peptides with a growth factor-like activity to take care of the skin well-ageing.

This novel biotechnology strategy is backed by a cutting-edge science and inspired by plant mechanisms that enable the skin regeneration with unique plant peptides based on the key concept of sustainability.

Delivering excellence in consumer experience is critical to continued product success for all personal care and cosmetic manufacturers. Capturing this experience is essential in qualitative and quantitative research to maximise insight and provide robust and accurate data that will drive successful innovation and support product claims. SAM has a range of new data collection tools that use mobile apps, voice recognition and gamification to increase consumer engagement and better capture those critical moments of truth. These tools will be introduced in this presentation alongside a new approach to measure the relative roles of product, brand and pack to product success.

Key Takeaways:
A fresh look at how to approach insight generation and claims research.

Each day, 3 new beauty brands are launched, and 3 brands die, just in France. Now scale that globally - the Personal Care Ingredient Marketing is undergoing unprecedented change. Join us to discover a systematic way to uncover emerging demand per ingredient, per market, per application, per brand, before the trends take off.

Key Takeaways:  Amid all the noise and industry changes, Gravel AI's Ingredient Market Intelligence Platform streams market signals that enable chemical manufacturers to get a clear picture of emerging demand for their ingredients.

The current challenge in formulating natural surfactant systems is not to find natural surfactants. It is more the question how to thicken those surfactant combinations, achieving a good foaming and leaving a nice sensory on skin and hair.

Addressing the consumer need for cleansers that don’t dry out skin, Softhance™ MR conditioning agent is a nature-derived, biodegradable ingredient that deposits itself on the skin from rinse-off cleansing systems, enabling skin moisture retention and leaving consumer-perceivable skin softness.  Consumer studies have shown that Softhance™ MR improves foam and leaves skin feeling perceivably softer and moisturized even after rinse-off.  Broad surfactant compatibility enables creation of sulfate-free or anionic surfactant-based hand, face or body washes and scrubs that are both clear and conditioning.  Softhance™ MR has a high nature-derived content of 82% and is vegan-suitable, non-GMO, and non-microplastic.

Learn more about Softhance™ MR conditioning agent in this presentation, which will include data, formulation tips and inspiring formulations that highlight two additional sustainable innovations, Liftyl™ biofunctional and Phyteq™ Raspberry i multifunctional.  Liftyl™ is a premium rosewood extract from upcycled wood chips for face sculpting that can redraw the skin contours and smooth out wrinkles, leaving the skin naturally rejuvenated with a bouncy glow.  Phyteq™ Raspberry I is a multifunctional preservative booster inspired by nature that acts as preservative potentiator to protect a cosmetic formulation against spoilage while also providing antioxidant and free radical scavenging properties that help to retain the elasticity of the skin.

Sulfate-free trend continues to grow worldwide, especially in North America and in Europe, explained by different drivers: the increased awareness of consumers about the ingredients entering their cosmetic products and their possible impact on their health & on the planet, the bad image of sulfates, perceived as harsh chemicals and associated with skin and eye irritation, etc.

However, in Sulfate Free, the formulators have to face many challenges, starting by achieving the desired viscosity, while keeping stability of the chassis over time. The salt topic is thus key. Indeed salt helps to build the viscosity but if present in too much quantity, it can cause also clarity and stability issues, especially when the formula incorporates cationic polymer for Hair/Skin conditioning, or naturally-derived thickening polymer with limited salt tolerance.

During the presentation, François-Florian will present the Solvay’s strong expertise in Sulfate Free formulations and the various developed ingredients and solutions to rise to these different challenges.

With the growing number of plant-based consumers and vegan brands, many formulators and microbiologists within the industry are striving to achieve a fully vegan process. This begins at sourcing raw materials, through to formulation and product packaging, as well as microbial product testing. ISCA Cosmetic Testing are able to provide their customers with testing methods that have been certified by The Vegan Society.

Key Takeaways:

• An overview of regulations and requirements to bring a cosmetic product to market.
• Find out why the current PET testing methods are not vegan and explore the alternative methods that ISCA Cosmetic Testing can offer.
• Discover ISCA’s current R&D formulatory work using new and innovative concept ideas.

We’ll touch on where we are now as a company and the evolution of the expectations around natural extracts.  Then we’ll highlight our agility in relation to creating extracts with new trend ingredients and to satisfy emerging trends in the sector, and we’ll close on a feature of a project to bring to market a brand-new botanical.  Essentially we’ll weave a company update in with a showcase of three exciting products not widely (or at all!) accessible elsewhere.

Key Takeaways:  Sourcing with Respect in South America – Yerba Mate / The Mystique of the Mushroom – Lion’s Mane / A Secret from South Africa – Scarlet Geranium

Aevum Vita 406 is a mild, naturally derived surfactant for use in cosmetic products with excellent anti-microbial and foaming properties.

It exhibits anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties, allowing formulators to reduce or even eliminate the preservative content from their formulations. Furthermore, Aevum Vita 406 shows excellent anti-dandruff and good anti-acne activities. It shows very good anti-fungal activity against Malassezia Furfur, which has been shown to cause dandruff on the scalp.

Human skin is a complex organ which performs several important functions, many of which are essential for human health and homeostasis. The skin is also colonised by diverse populations of microorganisms known as the skin microbiome or more properly as the skin microbiota. The role of the microbiota in skin health is still an emerging area of scientific investigation, however it is known to play an important role in many vital physiological functions. An imbalance in the skin microbiota know as dysbiosis is associated with several human diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.

 Many topically applied cosmetic products contain ingredients such as preservatives and surfactants with the potential to alter the composition and function of the skin microbiota potentially leading to dysbiosis. Here at Melbec Microbiology we offer a sensible step wise testing approach to evaluate the impact of cosmetic ingredients and products on the skin microbiota. We are also looking to the future of skin microbiome testing, specifically in the areas of metatranscriptomics and metabolomics to not only evaluate the composition of the skin microbiota but also its function.

TiMOOD™ provides a healthy, even skin complexion and positively influences one’s mood and emotional well-being by stimulating the skin brain axis to influence feelings of relaxation, balance, and calm.

Key Takeaways:
Improvement of emotional wellbeing in terms of being less stressed and more relaxed, evaluated with a new tool; a non-verbally and unbiased Neuropsychological test for the cosmetic industry.

Rebecca will give an overview of the trends in the botanical market for 2024 and beyond, plus how Croda is set up to support customers’ new product development. Come along to find out more about the trend topics and how these are likely to impact the market next year!

Key Takeaways: Trends in the botanical market and how Croda can support you in developing formulations using our botanical extracts.

Ready to be inspired?

Vitamin E, specifically the RRR-α-tocopherol stereoisomer, is crucial for protecting the skin against OXY-AGING especially as UV exposure depletes the endogenous tocopherol in the stratum corneum by >90%.

Learn more from Corinne Déchelette at SCS formulate in November about OXY R³- Protection by RRR-α-tocopherol and how Kensing is advancing the science of RRR plant-based tocopherols through ground-breaking research based on Dynamic Molecular simulations and Confocal Microscopy analysis of skin cells.

Daily replenishment of RRR plant-based tocopherols is critical in any skin care regimen to protect the skin cells from exposome induced lipoperoxidation.

Refining the appearance of pores: a multifaceted challenge
Results from a recent large study by Revieve Oy show: the number 3 skin concern for women is visibility of pores. The cosmetic industry seems not to have been able to supply the consumer with products which are effective enough to tackle this concern. Hence, there is a demand for active ingredients which can act at the core of those biological processes in the skin that lead to conspicuous pores.
There are two aspects to skin pores which dictate how conspicuous they are and how much of a concern they become. Large pores are more visible. The contrast between the color of the pores and the surrounding skin is another important factor, however.
CLR has developed CutiFine CLR™ which was designed to address all important cell biological features which make pores more conspicuous.
CutiFine CLR™ acts on sebum production, barrier function, inflammation, free radicals, glycation, protein carbonylation, keratinocyte hyperproliferation and dermal structure. In an in vivo study, CutiFine CLR™ showed its efficacy on visibility of skin pores, both as measured with AEVA-HE technology and, even more importantly, in the perception of the volunteers who took part in the study.

Key Takeaways:
CutiFine CLR™ is the first ingredient which addresses all cell biological processes, which contribute to skin pores becoming more conspicuous.
Sustainably produced from extractions of cowherb and the fruit pulp of baobab.
Reduces the size of pores without having astringent activity.
Acts on multiple pathways which increase color contrast between pores and skin.

Beauty Movements: The next phase of inclusive beauty

Movements are memorable because they signify a shift, a breakthrough, something long-lasting.

When we think about beauty movements, over the past few years we’ve seen huge strides with inclusivity and transparency. Beauty brands are casting a wider net, to ensure all communities, all humans, feel welcome, whether that is through gender, hair/body/skin types, ethnicity, or disability adaptations. The door is open for ALL and brands are eager to bring consumers into their world, tell their story, and share experiences. Join us in a discussion on the next phase of inclusive beauty, a beauty that knows “No Boundaries.” Learn how this next phase of inclusivity is shaping product development, textures and even ingredient selections. Let’s envisage what the consumer of today and tomorrow will expect from beauty brands through their own personal, yet inclusive experience.

Alchemy Ingredients specialises in developing natural functional ingredients that can be used as substitutes for synthetic materials in cosmetic formulations. In this talk we will be introducing some new products that will be launched at SCS Formulate, along with some new formulations to provide inspiration for your projects.

Say goodbye to oily, blemished skin and hello to a flawless skin with Epispot, the game-changing extract from Willowherb (Epilobium Angustifolium). This powerful ingredient is dedicated to tackling the multiple imbalances that plague oily, problematic skin such as excess oil production, microbiome imbalance and weakened defense against daily damage. With added pore refining and skin-texture-enhancing benefits, Epispot is the ultimate multi-rebalancing solution for oily, blemished skin.

Epilobium Angustifolium, also known as Willowherb, is a magical plant with an extraordinary ability to restore balance in the natural world. Its delicate pink flowers bloom amidst the charred remains of a forest fire, signaling the beginning of a new cycle of life. As the plant grows, it stabilizes the soil and restores nutrients, providing a nourishing environment for other plants and animals to thrive.

Now, imagine bringing that same sense of balance and harmony to your skincare routine!

In this presentation the features and benefits of SonneNatural for personal care formulations will be presented.  The focus will be on how our plant-based emollient offers high levels of moisturisation and stability and contribute to the sensory profile of your natural formulations.

Specialized in the development of balanced size mineral filters for sun care, skin care and color cosmetic products, ADP Cosmetics will present their latest generation of ingredients and their broad-spectrum protection with the minimum environmental impact on oceans and coral reefs.

Do you still think that formulating sunscreens with a low concentration of non-nano mineral filters and without whitening effect is impossible? ADP Cosmetics presents its proposal of coloured and transparent effect filters that makes this possible, including protection in the broad spectrum, without an environmental impact.

There is no doubt that now that we are all living longer, there will be many challenges ahead. It's important to look at the needs of a range of different demographics when formulating so we can make products more sustainable and efficient for different generations and multifunctional where gender lines are becoming more blurred.

Koboguard Natural PFX is a synergistic blend of natural functional materials bringing a multitude of benefits to skin, sun, make-up and hair care formulas. It builds breathable films as well as providing non drip rheology and viscosity modification, sensory and soft focus effects. Liquid and easy to incorporate.

Can we do more with less? As we strive towards improving sustainability, solely focusing on high naturality is not always going to be enough. In this seminar we will discuss technologies designed to improve the efficacy of plant-sourced actives whilst reducing their environmental impact - saving water, energy and land-use and through the reduction of waste. We will also explore the different applications and potential of the most abundant natural polymer on Earth – including improving sensory properties, film forming, and use as a thickener

Fermentation is the oldest form of Biotechnology. We are ferment pioneers and create unique bio-ferments which are then usually combined with certain synergistic ingredients to produce very efficacious cosmetic actives. Our ferment technology brings differentiated solutions to enhance functional performance and deliver aesthetic benefits in both skincare and haircare.

This presentation will throw light upon the current trends in the Beauty and Personal Care (B&PC) Industry with a prime focus on Skin Care. The presentation will explain the scientific importance of the unique, patented and multifunctional bioactives produced exclusively by bitop AG. These bioactives are stress protection molecules also known as ‘Extremolytes’ and have a clinically proven efficacy.

bitop offers 100% natural, multifunctional bioactives for sustainable, clean and highly efficacious skin care.

Psychological stress has negative effects on healthy skin affecting its integrity and function.

This is due to the activation of the central and peripheral cutaneous hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis, including the 11β-HSD1 enzyme that catalyzed the conversion from inactive cortisone to active cortisol in skin cells.

AKOSKY^TM MINDLIGHT was able to act on cortisol biosynthesis and fibroblast stiffness consequently reducing skin aging and skin damage induced by psychological stress.

The effect of AKOSKY^TM MINDLIGHT (lyophilized) active was investigated in vitro, evaluating its cell proliferative effects and impact on cortisol biosynthesis associated with the inhibition of the 11β-HSD1 enzyme. In addition, mechanical properties analysis was realized in cell culture treated with the active ingredient and cortisol. To assess it, it is performed an Atomic Force Microscope measurement to obtain information about the mechanical properties of primary fibroblasts from a 30-year-old donor, both in the nucleus and the cytoplasm area to also obtain information about the global fibroblast stiffness.

Moreover, AKOSKY^TM MINDLIGHT was clinically tested on a stressed population to observe its efficacy in improving the expression wrinkles, skin mechanical properties, skin barrier, skin redness, and skin radiance.

Globally, this innovative study demonstrated, for the first time in the cosmetic field, that cortisol has a negative impact on fibroblast mechanical properties, causing its increase in stiffness, and consequently, premature aging, and AKOSKY^TM MINDLIGHT both inhibits cortisol biosynthesis and decreases fibroblast stiffness.

Accordingly, AKOSKY^TM MINDLIGHT, an active ingredient based on Medicago Sativa sprouts, showed to reduce the unwanted effects of stress on the skin of individuals.

From the first bright idea to a fresh new product on the market, we’ll be taking you through the brand building process at Crafted to help launch great ideas into the cosmetics world.