Inform – SCS Formulate 2017

Seminar List for Inform

09:30 - 10:00

Global Standard for Consumer Products

You have the approved formulation and all the pre-production product safety and performance testing reports.  So how do you navigate the often-precarious maze called the supply chain to ensure that your product is manufactured and delivered intact, safe, legal and with the expected quality to consistently delight your customers?

In this talk, from niche start up brands to global players, we take you through the supply chain solutions offered by the BRC Global Certification Scheme.

Learning Outcomes

By the end of the seminar, delegates will understand:

  • The world of brand reputation and compliance
  • The importance of supply chain audits
  • Introduction to the BRC Global Standards Certification Scheme
  • How BRC Consumer Products Standard compares with other global standards
  • A day in the life of a BRC Global Standards Auditor- Auditing as a career stream

Speakers

10:00 - 10:30

Brexit and the Cosmetics Industry – what you need to know

On 29 March 2017 Theresa May launched the European Union exit process by triggering Article 50 of the European Union Treaty. The United Kingdom is now preparing to formally leave the EU by the end of March 2019.

The UK is the second largest European market for cosmetics; worth more than 9 billion pounds in 2016 (retail sales price). Companies based all over the world, not just in the UK will be affected and will have to adapt quickly to the new regulatory environment in order to ensure business continuity.  But how can we prepare when we do not know what the legislative landscape will be in the UK, and what will be the new trade relationship between the EU and the United Kingdom?

More than a year after the Referendum, it is important to take a look at what we know about the negotiations, the "Repeal Bill" and the regulatory consequences of the Exit from the EU for the cosmetics industry.

Learning Outcomes:

By the end of the seminar, delegates will understand:

  • The impact of “Brexit” on the cosmetics industry and its supply chain
  • The political context of the negotiations
  • CTPA key asks and involvement with external stakeholders
  • What can and should be done now to ensure business continuity

Speaker

11:30 - 12:30

When a consumer reacts to a cosmetic product: From Cosmetovigilance to Patch testing

Market surveillance, in which cosmetovigilance plays a crucial role, is arguably one of the most important attributes in the lifecycle management of cosmetic products.  Although cosmetovigilance is a mandatory requirement in the European cosmetic regulatory framework, the concept can also provide brand owners, both own-label and FMCG, with valuable insights into consumer perceptions of their marketed cosmetic products.

This presentation will highlight the current philosophy employed by the cosmetic industry in the European Union, illustrated by real-life examples of cosmetic products and product types which can elicit complaints from consumers using such products.

 

Learning outcomes:

1) Cosmetovigilance is more than a checkbox exercise to satisfy a European regulatory requirement.

2) Consumers are very fickle when it comes to contacting Brands and Retailers when they experience a 'problem' with a product.

3) Cosmetovigilance and market surveillance are not difficult or complex.  Logical thinking and an orderly way of doing things are the key to successful programmes.

4) Cosmetovigilance and market surveillance can contribute more than just safety signals.  Brand reputation can also be 'saved'.

5) Consumers are becoming increasingly savvy in the ways that they interact with Brands and Retailers; you must not underestimate the power of the internet.

Speakers

14:00 - 14:30

From Anti-Pollution to Common Criteria, This Claims to be a Crucial Update

With the broad range of emerging claims requirements, such as anti-pollution, microbiome, skin health and multiple other trends, it is easy to lose sight of the fundamentals of supporting  a claim and crucially, ensuring it is relevant to the consumer. In this talk, I will discuss the pitfalls of claims testing strategies that do not meet the needs of advertising regulators, or run the risk of falling foul of regulators as we pursue new claims, using ever more sophisticated testing. In all of this, is the consumer at the heart of the thinking? I will also share research we are undertaking with cell culture specialist XCellR8 as part of an Innovate UK grant we have been awarded, that seeks to advance the science of safety protection for consumers and help eliminate any need for historical animal testing data.

Learning outcomes:

  1. Consumer relevant claims versus statistically significant claims
  2. Avoiding generating claims data that does not differentiate your product
  3. Working within the regulatory guidelines whilst maximizing product impact
  4. The next generation of testing for safety-how we need to evolve our consumer understanding

Speaker

14:30 - 15:00

It’s All About Me – The Quantified Self Trend, Beauty Devices and the Future of Personal Care

Research on over 500 consumers has been undertaken to evaluate how the rise of several global trends such as “Wearable Tech”, “Wellness” and “Digital Beauty” along with the widespread use of smart phones, VR and “Selfie Culture” has led to an increased market need for devices which can measure appearance. In terms of digital marketing and ecommerce such devices provide a huge opportunity for sales on the move and a shift from bricks and mortar selling to an enhanced virtual beauty environment. Beauty devices, such as the recent launch of the L’Oreal Kerastase Smart Brush, along with a desire to measure and share many aspects of life driven by Wellness and Health devices such as the ubiquitous Fitbit, has resulted in a market opportunity for technology which can quantify aspects of facial attractiveness, skin health and beauty.

A review of currently available beauty devices which ride the “Quantified Self” trend will be presented. The opportunities and also the threats presented by this type of technology will also be covered.

Alba Science have recently conducted an extensive market survey on over 500 respondents to evaluate how the efficacy of products are currently evaluated by consumers, which claims in the market place are the most motivating for consumers and how the use of apps and quantified-self devices can change the attitude of consumers in terms of how they use and interact with products and regimes. The results of this survey will be shared during the talk and examples will be given showing how the insights from this study will be used in the future to engage consumers, ensure brand loyalty and allow for personalisation of both product and interaction.

Learning Outcomes:

  1. Understanding of the trends contributing to the rise of Quantified Self (QS) devices in beauty
  2. Update on currently available/recently launched beauty devices
  3. Examples of how devices are driving consumer choice in the market place
  4. Understanding of how consumers engage with product now and in the future
  5. Insights into the future application of QS devices to build brand loyalty and enhance product performance

Speaker

16:00 - 16:30

African Hair

Growing up with natural afro hair was definitely a challenge for me. Although I have now managed to address most of the challenges I encountered with my hair earlier in life, my journey has led me to realise that I was not the only one.

A significant portion of the population born with natural tightly coiled and curly hair, are facing similar issues, such as:

  • handling inherently dry and brittle hair
  • handling frizz, and
  • reducing shrinkage

Unfortunately, at the time, products formulated by the industry for my hair type were essentially designed to chemically alter its texture, by removing the coils, curls and leaving the hair straighter (until the new textured growth).

Such practices are very often started early in life, leaving a number of people with naturally coiled, curly hair with little clue on how to tackle the challenges of the unaltered afro hair textures.

The last decade has seen a significant drop in sales of relaxers, texturizers and other products designed to chemically alter natural afro hair; and an emergence of products aimed at helping impart further manageability, suppleness and curl definition to afro hair.

We will have a look at how the ‘Nappy’ (Naturally Happy) community is learning to embrace its ‘mane’ and how the industry can complement and support.

Speaker

16:30 - 17:00

Beauty trends 2017: A world tour

A beauty 'World tour', this session will look at trends, as well as new and classic beauty brands from key countries and regions. From athleisure in the US to Australian bush tucker ingredients via Scandinavia-inspired concepts, Julia Wray's talk will provide brand owners, formulators and marketeers alike with NPD inspiration gleaned from across the globe.

Learning Outcomes

  1. Lifestyle and beauty trends that have emerged and developed in recent months in key regions
  2. New and leading domestic brands in key regions
  3. Natural and/or indigenous ingredients making their way into local beauty brands
  4. International trends/brands that might be of interest to UK consumers
  5. Leading pan-regional themes in beauty for 2017/18

Speaker

09:30 - 10:00

Cosmetic Formulators – You are not alone!

An understanding of the critical parameters in a formulation, be they ingredient type, level, or process conditions is critical to the commercial success of a formulated product. In this presentation, Dr David Calvert will outline a design process which can be used in all industries, including cosmetics, resulting in   high performing, consistent and more resilient products.

About iFormulate

iFormulate Ltd provides customised R&D and innovation services in formulation science and technology to companies who develop and produce formulated products, across a range of sectors (e.g. pharmaceuticals, personal care, food, inks, coatings, agrochemicals). Founded by two industry professionals, iFormulate’s combined expertise and experience covers R&D, science, technical service, marketing, regulatory affairs, business strategy, product management, business development and consultancy and it delivers tailor-made solutions to clients.
https://iformulate.biz/

Speaker

10:00 - 10:30

Key Regulatory Updates: Plastic microbeads and Preservatives

There is much activity taking place in some important areas for the cosmetics industry.  This presentation will provide an update on two of these: Plastic microbeads and Preservatives.

The UK Government is proposing a ban on plastic microbeads in cosmetic products, to come into force in 2018.  The problem of plastic pollution in our oceans is serious.  The European cosmetics industry began voluntarily removing plastic microbeads well in advance of any proposed bans; this despite the contribution from cosmetics towards the total volume of primary microplastic deposited into the marine environment each year being but 0.29%. The key aspects of the proposed ban will be presented.

Preservatives are the important ingredients designed to protect products, and so the consumer, against contamination by microorganisms during storage and continued use.  All cosmetic products placed on the EU market must comply with the EU Cosmetic Products Regulation ((EC) No. 1223/2009) and must be safe – irrespective of the source of the ingredients or the claims being made.  Challenges to preservatives from media and the industry itself mean the positive list of preservatives, Annex V to the Cosmetics Regulation, is a shrinking pallet.  This in itself is a cause for concern.  The presentation will provide an update on the activities of the European cosmetics industry and the European Commission to preserve the preservatives.

Learning Outcomes:

  • What is the UK proposed ban on plastic microbeads
  • What actions are other legislative areas and the European Commission taking on plastic microbeads
  • The status of Annex V preservatives
  • An update on the Cosmetics Europe survey on preservative use
  • The implications for the UK/EU/Global cosmetics industry from both issues

Speaker

11:30 - 12:30

Cancer and Hair Loss

Hair is a secondary sexual characteristic and as such it can have a significant adverse emotional impact.  Affecting morale, confidence and self-esteem, many people’s personalities are influenced by their hair.

Scalp hair is also an extremely good barometer of our general well-being.  Nutrition, weight changes, hormones and stress can all influence scalp hair growth.  However, the most profound affect is cancer chemotherapy.

In this session I will explain the pathway of specific drugs on the hair cycle, the prognosis of hair regrowth and the effects of radiotherapy, scalp cooling, camouflaging hair loss and hair transplantation.

Learning outcomes:

  • Normal scalp hair cycle versus changes in cancer chemotherapy.
  • Preparing for hair loss and the emotional impact.
  • Options available for people with hair loss.
  • Advice as hair grows back.
  • Effect of Radiotherapy on hair follicles.

Speaker

  • Glenn Lyons Senior Consultant Trichologist, Director at Philip Kingsley Trichological Clinic - Philip Kingsley Clinic
14:00 - 14:30

The Microbiome

Next generation sequencing has the scientific world on the edge of a revolution. The Microbiome has always been the elephant in the room but now it can no longer being ignored. This is much more than the beginning of a new trend or an extension of an older pre/probiotic trend. Through this new greater understanding of how our bodies interact with the microbes we all carry, we can formulate more effective products.

In this talk, the recent research findings due to the advances in DNA technology/next generation sequencing, will be discussed with their implications to NPD in personal care.  There are paradoxes to be addressed. Do the preservatives in cosmetics disrupt the balance of our microbiome? This is a complex ecology so are we creating bigger problems by removing ‘’bad microbes’’ and feeding the ‘’good microbes’’? Should we even be thinking in terms of good and bad microbes.

Learning outcomes

    • What is the microbiome?
    • Next generation sequencing and its implications
    • Its Ecology stupid
    • And what are the effects of preservatives on our microbiome?
    • Should we be allowed to use live yoghurt topically?

Speaker

14:30 - 15:00

The Consequences of Non-Preserved Cosmetic Products

The session will take the listener through the risk assessment process for the manufacture and testing of non- preserved Cosmetic Products. We will discuss validation, raw materials, susceptibility and setting specifications. We will also discuss microorganisms of concern to the industry.

Learning Outcomes

  1. Validation requirements when manufacturing non preserved products.
  2. Raw materials
    1. Hostile
    2. Inert
  3. Susceptibility of the product to contamination during manufacture and for the consumer
  4. Guidance on setting Microbial Limits Specifications
  5. Microorganisms of concern to the industry

Speaker

  • Angela Davies Managing Director - MSL (Microbiological Solutions Ltd)
15:30 - 16:00

Stability Testing; Theory into Practice

Stability Testing; a requirement of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, is conducted to verify that a cosmetic/toiletry is safe and maintains an acceptable level of quality throughout the period in which it is to be marketed, from manufacture, transport, storage and use. This presentation shall cover the importance of determining the criteria to be monitored during development, as well as the various conditions employed in order to to determine product stability.

Learning outcomes:

    • Regulation Overview
    • Objectives of Stability Testing
    • Test Protocols
    • Interpretation of results
    • Case Studies

Speaker