Room B – SCS Formulate 2017

Seminar List for Room B

09:30 - 09:50

New actives and concepts from CLR Berlin

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09:50 - 10:10

The Future Of Plant Stem Cells

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10:10 - 10:30

Sodium Methyl Acyl Taurates Give High Performing Personal Cleansing Systems.

Sodium methyl acyl taurate surfactants are becoming popular for formulating high performing sulfate-free shampoos, shower gels and body washes, etc having global compliance. This presentation will cover formulating tips for achieving such systems using Innospec’s Pureact WS and Pureact MS taurate surfactants. It will also give details for formulating stable sodium methyl acyl taurate sulfate-free surfactant systems containing polymeric cationic conditioning agents, which have high conditioning efficacy.

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11:30 - 11:50

Oleoactif Lift®

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11:50 - 12:10

Adding value – trends, formulations and raw materials for a changing world

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12:10 - 12:30

Hair Care – An alternative to split ends trimming: Solvay launches Polycare Split Therapy!

Nothing beats a fresh haircut to make hair look shinier and healthier. But a few weeks of multiple mechanical, chemical and thermal treatments cause split ends, that make hair unmanageable and lifeless.Thanks to Solvay’s new innovation, trimming split ends is no longer the only fix for damaged hair. Solvay introduces Polycare Split Therapy, a durable cure for split ends, that is vegetable-based, easy to process and compatible with shampoo, conditioners and serums. Long-lasting Polycare Split Therapy heals more than 80 percent of split ends with just the first application. Keep that fresh-haircut look longer, without the salon price!

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14:00 - 14:20

The Water Paradox: Exploring novel formulations to meet diverse global trends

Formulators are constantly looking for the newest trends and how to design products to meet them. A rise in water shortage across the globe has led to many people seeking anhydrous solutions to their cosmetic needs, whilst a conflicting trend of increased water usage in products focusses on novel textures and hydrating claims. This presentation explores these water-based trends and the resultant formulatory opportunities.

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  • Felix Wilson Technical Development Chemist - Aston Chemicals
14:20 - 14:40

Stop wasting time! Use our natural thickening agents

Stop wasting time! Use our natural thickening agents.

Thickening and gelling agents have a huge influence on the stability and the haptic feeling of cosmetic formulations. High stability, high transparency, fast solubility and less stickiness are typical requirements. COSMOS and vegan certification combined with excellent specified values are fast increasing demands. Cosphatec GmbH will present the great potential of our highly transparent Xanthan Gums Cosphaderm® X 34 and Cosphaderm® X soft as well as our natural gelling substance Cosphaderm® KG and their interaction which leads to elastic jelly gels.

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14:40 - 15:00

Reprogramming the skin for a youthful appearance

Epigenetic mechanisms have been studied in depth along the past decade due to their interesting ability to control gene activity beyond the information in the DNA sequence. Among the processes regulated at the epigenetic level are epidermal renewal and homeostasis.

 

Epidermal basal cells (consisting of stem and progenitor cells) have the ability to proliferate, giving rise to cells that then follow a process of differentiation into mature keratinocytes. This capacity to replenish the tissue is maintained by the transcription factors OCT4, SOX2 and KLF4, which are stem cell markers. Activity of these genes is regulated at the epigenetic level by microRNAs. Concretely, microRNA-145 is known to repress the activity of these three stem cell transcription factors, causing basal cells to stop dividing. As a result, the cells leave the basal layer and start the differentiation process, involving changes in the expression of characteristic epidermal markers.

 

Lipotec was inspired by epigenetics and microRNAs to develop REPROAGE™ peptide, a cosmetic active ingredient that can help skin regeneration properties last longer. The ingredient reduces the levels of the key regulator microRNA-145 and increases the typical factors of basal cells, suggesting the reprograming of cells and a subsequent reactivation of the pool of epidermal progenitors.

 

The application of the cosmetic ingredient in volunteers was associated with a faster epidermal self-renewal, at a rate equivalent to that of more than a decade younger skin. Also an

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16:00 - 16:20

Skin Nutrition: Relying on Nature’s Expertise

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16:20 - 16:40

fiberhance BM solution, for internal hair strengthening and bonding

FiberHance™ bm solution is a molecule designed to penetrate the hair fiber and provide superior strengthening in shampoos and other hair care products by using cost-effective technology. This molecule is based on glucoside chemistry and creates new ionic and hydrogen bonds inside hair fibers, to strengthen with each wash and give back natural manageability. It is compatible with color treatment systems to strengthen hair during and after coloring, and to repair hair fibers that have been damaged by chemical treatments. It helps to strengthen all hair types, including Caucasian, Asian and African American.

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16:40 - 17:00

Cleanse, Detoxify Protect: The Next Generation of Anti-Pollution Actives

Sulfur biology is an untapped, relatively undiscovered sector of cosmetic science, holding potential for novel anti-ageing and anti-pollution claims. Investigations into the protective mechanisms of a microalgae, which flourishes in polluted waters following an underwater volcano eruption, led us to the co-culturing of Crypthecodinium Cohnii with a sulfur rich growth media. This process allows for the extraction of specific sulfated polysaccharides which in turn can up regulate glutathione concentrations when applied topically.  Glutathione is a potent antioxidant that works to protect against cellular and external environmental pollution defending the skin against both extrinsic and intrinsic stress.

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09:30 - 09:50

Lab Reactors for scaling from Lab to Production

09:50 - 10:10

Activys® where delivery systems become active ingredients

A revolutionary platform for active delivery in any type of skin, but the best system for sensitive skin or for any cosmetic application associated with inflammatory processes. The system is completely natural, marine derived from deep sea algae’s Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids. This provides a flexible structure which allows greater penetration to spread the assets in deep layers of the skin. The first two off the shelf delivery systems we have created are for Anti-Pollution & Anti-Glycation.

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10:10 - 10:30

Discover our new Rheomer® Low pH designed to meet consumer needs for transparent rinse off products.

Sensory (aesthetics, product texture...) keeps growing as a differentiating attribute. Following the massive shift to preservation with organic acids, many rheological ingredients — essential to sensory — have become inadequate, giving rise to new formulation challenges. Concurrently, skin types with specific needs (such as sensitive, dry, eczema-prone, or oily/acne-prone or simply ageing) are on the rise, and require acidic pH treatments with pleasing textures. Solvay presents this new rheological agent that performs in acidic pH : Rheomer® Low pH.

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11:30 - 11:50

Compelling Silicone Film Formers for Various Personal Care Applications.

Silicone resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicate and acrylates/dimethicone copolymer can be blended with various silicone and non-silicone carriers to modify their properties to make them a perfect fit for specific personal care applications. This presentation will cover the features and benefits of Innospec’s silicone film formers and silicone film former blends for applications in a wide range of product types. It will feature Specsil K-80 which is a novel trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethcone blend which forms clear, smooth flexible films having no stress cracks and excellent resistance to rub-off, water and sebum.

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11:50 - 12:10

Taking total Protection into the Blue

Consumers are exposed to blue light nearly everywhere and every day, either by sunlight or by artificial blue light from electronic devices. Recent studies have shown that blue light penetrated deep into the skin and therefore can damage all skin layers. DSM´s “Total Protection into the Blue” concept is based on two complementing formulations for Total Protection, Outdoor & Indoor. Based on scientific findings, DSM developed strong claim substantiation based on cutting edge technologies: UV-filter(s) that also block blue light, selective vitamins counteracting oxidative stress and a new microalga (Scenedesmus rubescence) derived bioactive that stimulates skin´s own defense.

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12:10 - 12:30

PolyAquol™ – technology for natural and efficient emulsions

Through years of research, Innovacos has developed an expertise in polyglycerol technology.  This knowhow led to a new generation of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers known as PolyAquol™.

The first member of the PolyAquol™ family, PolyAquol™-2W, is a patent pending O/W self-emulsifier.  PolyAquol™-2W possesses a wide range of formulation compatibility while providing a unique skin feel to emulsions.  On a more functional level, PolyAquol™-2W can generate highly organized liquid crystals important to provide stability to the emulsion and to ensure compatibility with the skin.  Clinically, PolyAquol™-2W was shown to prevent and repair damage caused to the skin barrier function by UV exposure.

PolyAquol™-OS2 is the second member of the PolyAquol™ line.  PolyAquol™-OS2 can generate W/O emulsions endowed with a very light texture and skin feel.  Its  molecular arrangement provides strong emulsifying properties without the need of co-emulsifiers and it can advantageously be used also for cold-processed emulsions.  It is perfectly suited for sunscreen and makeup formulations containing powders and pigments.

Both, PolyAquol™-2W and PolyAquol™-OS2 emulsifiers are all naturally derived with Ecocert and Cosmos approvals.

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14:30 - 14:50

Skin Secrets from Asia

In recent times, a growing demand for products that purport to enhance skin tones and restore a youthful appearance by minimizing, or avoiding wrinkle formation has become a phenomenon in Asian countries like China, Korea, Japan, and India. With increasing awareness, there is a rising population of beauty-conscious individuals looking-out for alternative to conventional topical skin care delivery systems that are reliable, natural & safe, and cost-efficient as well. This has caused a significant remoteness against prescription medications and high-cost medical procedures, as more people are leaning towards natural alternatives.

Sabinsa has come up with several innovative cosmeceutical products that represent a perfect blend of art and science. A few of ingredients that fulfil specific personal care needs of beauty-seekers include SabiWhite, Saberry, Tetrahydrocurcuminoids (THCs), Cococin, Artonox, PteroWhite, Licorice extract, and Ellagic acid (for skin lightening effect), and Boswellin Super, Sage extract, Sodium Ursolate and Venocin.

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14:50 - 15:10

IMCD Presentation

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15:10 - 15:30

Epigenetics

Our body, including the skin and its appearance, is the result of our gene expressions. Epigenetics is the study of the biological mechanisms involved in the regulation of gene activity without altering their sequence. Epigenetic changes happens regular and naturally but can also be influenced by several factors including the age, environmental factors like UV radiation, pollution, the lifestyle, the emotions, some diseases…

Epigenetics opens a new door to ingredients that can influence our skin genes epigenetically . Epigenetics is a new paradigm in the Science of Anti Aging. Via epigenetic mechanisms, genes can be modulated to get involved in regulatory processes such as: Cell cycles, DNA repair systems, Reactions to oxidative stress, Inflammation, Hair growth stimulation, Skin regeneration, etc.

Cobiosa’s R&D continuous research, has developed new assays on the epigenetic action of three of its ingredients: COBIODEFENDER EMR, DRAGON’S BLOOD & GLYCOENERGIZER HAIR

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