15 November – SCS Formulate 2017

Seminar List for 15 November

09:30 - 10:00

Cosmetic Formulators – You are not alone!

An understanding of the critical parameters in a formulation, be they ingredient type, level, or process conditions is critical to the commercial success of a formulated product. In this presentation, Dr David Calvert will outline a design process which can be used in all industries, including cosmetics, resulting in   high performing, consistent and more resilient products.

About iFormulate

iFormulate Ltd provides customised R&D and innovation services in formulation science and technology to companies who develop and produce formulated products, across a range of sectors (e.g. pharmaceuticals, personal care, food, inks, coatings, agrochemicals). Founded by two industry professionals, iFormulate’s combined expertise and experience covers R&D, science, technical service, marketing, regulatory affairs, business strategy, product management, business development and consultancy and it delivers tailor-made solutions to clients.
https://iformulate.biz/

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09:30 - 09:50

Lab Reactors for scaling from Lab to Production

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09:30 - 09:50

Measuring the antioxidant capacity of vegan products and their ingredients with the ABEL-RAC-Vegan™ Antioxidant Test.

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09:50 - 10:10

Activys® where delivery systems become active ingredients

Activys® is a revolutionary natural platform for active delivery in any type of skin, but the best system for sensitive skin or for any cosmetic application associated with inflammatory processes. This is because the delivery system itself is ‘active’ with great anti-inflammatory properties. The system is completely natural, marine derived from deep sea algae’s Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids. This provides a very flexible structure which allows greater penetration to deliver more of the active(s) quicker and deeper into the skin.

The first two off the shelf delivery systems have been carefully created utilising a combination of specific natural extracts and ferments as the other ‘actives’ within Activys®. The first has been designed for “Anti-Pollution” & the second for “Anti-Glycation”. More products to follow, although as with all of our active delivery systems, it is possible to create your own bespoke product.

We look forward to seeing you in our presentation and / or on stand 629 to discuss this in more detail...

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09:50 - 10:10

Solexyl, a novel cosmetic compound for UV protection

UV, and especially UV-B, are extremely noxious for the skin as they can cause DNA damage, inflammation, free radicals production, and cell death. In order to defend itself against these sun rays, skin developed protections such as melanin and urocanic acid. These natural chromophores are capable of absorbing UV and therefore to reduce their damage. However, while absorbing UV they also generate free radicals and may cause skin immuno-suppression.

Here we show how Solexyl, a nature-inspired cosmetic active, is capable of negating the UV-induced skin damage while also preventing the side effects of the skin endogenous protectors.

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10:00 - 10:30

Key Regulatory Updates: Plastic microbeads and Preservatives

There is much activity taking place in some important areas for the cosmetics industry.  This presentation will provide an update on two of these: Plastic microbeads and Preservatives.

The UK Government is proposing a ban on plastic microbeads in cosmetic products, to come into force in 2018.  The problem of plastic pollution in our oceans is serious.  The European cosmetics industry began voluntarily removing plastic microbeads well in advance of any proposed bans; this despite the contribution from cosmetics towards the total volume of primary microplastic deposited into the marine environment each year being but 0.29%. The key aspects of the proposed ban will be presented.

Preservatives are the important ingredients designed to protect products, and so the consumer, against contamination by microorganisms during storage and continued use.  All cosmetic products placed on the EU market must comply with the EU Cosmetic Products Regulation ((EC) No. 1223/2009) and must be safe – irrespective of the source of the ingredients or the claims being made.  Challenges to preservatives from media and the industry itself mean the positive list of preservatives, Annex V to the Cosmetics Regulation, is a shrinking pallet.  This in itself is a cause for concern.  The presentation will provide an update on the activities of the European cosmetics industry and the European Commission to preserve the preservatives.

Learning Outcomes:

  • What is the UK proposed ban on plastic microbeads
  • What actions are other legislative areas and the European Commission taking on plastic microbeads
  • The status of Annex V preservatives
  • An update on the Cosmetics Europe survey on preservative use
  • The implications for the UK/EU/Global cosmetics industry from both issues

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10:10 - 10:30

Discover our new Rheomer® Low pH designed to meet consumer needs for transparent rinse off products.

Sensory (aesthetics, product texture...) keeps growing as a differentiating attribute. Following the massive shift to preservation with organic acids, many rheological ingredients — essential to sensory — have become inadequate, giving rise to new formulation challenges. Concurrently, skin types with specific needs (such as sensitive, dry, eczema-prone, or oily/acne-prone or simply ageing) are on the rise, and require acidic pH treatments with pleasing textures. Solvay presents this new rheological agent that performs in acidic pH : Rheomer® Low pH.

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10:10 - 10:30

Targeting beauty trends with innovative solutions

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11:30 - 12:30

Cancer and Hair Loss

Hair is a secondary sexual characteristic and as such it can have a significant adverse emotional impact.  Affecting morale, confidence and self-esteem, many people’s personalities are influenced by their hair.

Scalp hair is also an extremely good barometer of our general well-being.  Nutrition, weight changes, hormones and stress can all influence scalp hair growth.  However, the most profound affect is cancer chemotherapy.

In this session I will explain the pathway of specific drugs on the hair cycle, the prognosis of hair regrowth and the effects of radiotherapy, scalp cooling, camouflaging hair loss and hair transplantation.

Learning outcomes:

  • Normal scalp hair cycle versus changes in cancer chemotherapy.
  • Preparing for hair loss and the emotional impact.
  • Options available for people with hair loss.
  • Advice as hair grows back.
  • Effect of Radiotherapy on hair follicles.

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  • Glenn Lyons Senior Consultant Trichologist, Director at Philip Kingsley Trichological Clinic - Philip Kingsley Clinic
11:30 - 11:50

Compelling Silicone Film Formers for Various Personal Care Applications.

Silicone resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicate and acrylates/dimethicone copolymer can be blended with various silicone and non-silicone carriers to modify their properties to make them a perfect fit for specific personal care applications. This presentation will cover the features and benefits of Innospec’s silicone film formers and silicone film former blends for applications in a wide range of product types. It will feature Specsil K-80 which is a novel trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethcone blend which forms clear, smooth flexible films having no stress cracks and excellent resistance to rub-off, water and sebum.

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11:30 - 11:50

Hair Necessities & Launches from Croda

Our hair is a powerful medium for expressing our individuality and, as a result, we often inadvertently torture it to achieve the perfect ‘look’. With everything from bleaching and colouring to even everyday combing and styling imparting damage onto the hair fibre, it is necessary to provide protection to ensure that a short-term look doesn’t have longer-term implications. Join Croda as we explore our latest innovations in hair care, exploring novel ways to protect and repair hair damage.

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11:30 - 12:00

Scrub up on Science

Scrub Up On Science is the Society's school programme.

Come and see how this amazing programme is evolving and developing

We also aim to inspire you to become ambassadors of the Society to go into your local schools to introduce the world of cosmetic science to the future generations.

Most schools have no practical science lessons for the Under 16s now and we think this is a tragedy.

SUOS lets them learn whilst having fun and encourages them to think about the science behind the products they use in their every day lives.

Please come and learn how you can be involved in this inspirational project.

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11:50 - 12:10

New insights into collagens: Fibre collagen I and physiologically active collagen XVIII

Fibroblasts synthesize numerous important dermal building blocks such as the large structuring components hyaluronic acid, elastic fibres and collagens. Especially the versatile collagens play a key role in skin physiology. Meanwhile, consumers are well familiar with the term “collagen” that has positive connotations, and they realised that there is not one kind of collagen in the skin only.

Due to its high share in the dermis, collagen I takes on a special position. Stimulating the synthesis can contribute to an increase of firmness and help to slow down skin aging. Dermagenist™ supports each of the four major steps in the synthesis of collagen I, including both intra- and extracellular processes. The final formation stage involves the enzyme LOXL1, responsible of the assembly of precursor molecules to long fibres. BASF Beauty Creations found out that the release of LOXL1 is impacted by an epigenetic mechanism. Dermagenist™, a Cosmos-approved marjoram extract rich in vicenin and luteolin-7-0-glucuronide, strongly stimulates the investigated synthesis steps. As result, Dermagenist™ increases skin density as well as skin firmness.

Besides collagens that play a pure mechanical role, there are also forms that additionally participate in physiological processes. Among them, collagen XVIII is unique: it is the only collagenous proteoglycan with biological activity that is present in all skin layers. BASF Beauty Creations discovered that Collagen XVIII is decreasing with age. Collalift™18 stimulates the production of this specific substance, both in the dermal-epidermal junction and in the basement membrane of adipocytes. Clinical studies demonstrated an increase of skin elasticity, an improvement of the skin homogeneity and a reduction of wrinkles. Collalift™18 is a Cosmos-approved extract from the bark of African Mahogany, sourced in Burkina Faso under monitored conditions.

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11:50 - 12:10

Taking total Protection into the Blue

Consumers are exposed to blue light nearly everywhere and every day, either by sunlight or by artificial blue light from electronic devices. Recent studies have shown that blue light penetrated deep into the skin and therefore can damage all skin layers. DSM´s “Total Protection into the Blue” concept is based on two complementing formulations for Total Protection, Outdoor & Indoor. Based on scientific findings, DSM developed strong claim substantiation based on cutting edge technologies: UV-filter(s) that also block blue light, selective vitamins counteracting oxidative stress and a new microalga (Scenedesmus rubescence) derived bioactive that stimulates skin´s own defense.

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12:00 - 12:30

Laura Marshall Award Winner Demonstration

12:10 - 12:30

Beauty Evolution-Staying ahead of Curve

Navigating the beauty section in your favorite store or clicking through the latest product launches is a daunting task as a consumer.  Today’s beauty offering is huge and capturing the consumer is a difficult task.  We will explore the next generation technologies available and in development that will shape the future of beauty.

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12:10 - 12:30

PolyAquol™ – technology for natural and efficient emulsions

Through years of research, Innovacos has developed an expertise in polyglycerol technology.  This knowhow led to a new generation of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers known as PolyAquol™.

The first member of the PolyAquol™ family, PolyAquol™-2W, is a patent pending O/W self-emulsifier.  PolyAquol™-2W possesses a wide range of formulation compatibility while providing a unique skin feel to emulsions.  On a more functional level, PolyAquol™-2W can generate highly organized liquid crystals important to provide stability to the emulsion and to ensure compatibility with the skin.  Clinically, PolyAquol™-2W was shown to prevent and repair damage caused to the skin barrier function by UV exposure.

PolyAquol™-OS2 is the second member of the PolyAquol™ line.  PolyAquol™-OS2 can generate W/O emulsions endowed with a very light texture and skin feel.  Its  molecular arrangement provides strong emulsifying properties without the need of co-emulsifiers and it can advantageously be used also for cold-processed emulsions.  It is perfectly suited for sunscreen and makeup formulations containing powders and pigments.

Both, PolyAquol™-2W and PolyAquol™-OS2 emulsifiers are all naturally derived with Ecocert and Cosmos approvals.

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14:00 - 14:30

The Microbiome

Next generation sequencing has the scientific world on the edge of a revolution. The Microbiome has always been the elephant in the room but now it can no longer being ignored. This is much more than the beginning of a new trend or an extension of an older pre/probiotic trend. Through this new greater understanding of how our bodies interact with the microbes we all carry, we can formulate more effective products.

In this talk, the recent research findings due to the advances in DNA technology/next generation sequencing, will be discussed with their implications to NPD in personal care.  There are paradoxes to be addressed. Do the preservatives in cosmetics disrupt the balance of our microbiome? This is a complex ecology so are we creating bigger problems by removing ‘’bad microbes’’ and feeding the ‘’good microbes’’? Should we even be thinking in terms of good and bad microbes.

Learning outcomes

    • What is the microbiome?
    • Next generation sequencing and its implications
    • Its Ecology stupid
    • And what are the effects of preservatives on our microbiome?
    • Should we be allowed to use live yoghurt topically?

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14:30 - 15:00

Creating Sulfate-free Systems with Surprisingly Innovative Textures

Innospec’s wide range of versatile, high-performing, sulfate-free surfactants can be used to create a large variety of cleansing system types with appealing and compelling textures and appearance.

Crystal-clear shampoos and body washes through to high oil containing cleansers that are lotion-like in appearance can be conveniently made in simple cold processes. We will be demonstrating how easy it is to formulate with a range of our Isethionate and Taurate sulfate-free surfactants in simple, practical demonstrations. Throughout the demonstration, we will also display several example formulations with various interesting textures. This is a must-see-demonstration for all formulators wishing to advance their knowledge of sulfate-free formulating.

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14:30 - 14:50

Eosidin™: Controlling atopic-prone skin conditions caused by indoor pollution

Your home is surrounded by indoor pollution which triggers irritation process and leads to atopic-prone skin conditions. People are subjected to two to five times more contaminants indoor than outdoor.

Eosidin™ is the first active ingredient targeting indoor pollution, and tackling skin immuno-modulation to avoid atopic-prone skin conditions and hypersensitivity. Eosidin™ is a well characterized extract of unripe citrus unshiu, coming from the wonderful and protected reserve of Jeju Island in Korea.

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14:30 - 14:50

Skin Secrets from Asia

In recent times, a growing demand for products that purport to enhance skin tones and restore a youthful appearance by minimizing, or avoiding wrinkle formation has become a phenomenon in Asian countries like China, Korea, Japan, and India. With increasing awareness, there is a rising population of beauty-conscious individuals looking-out for alternative to conventional topical skin care delivery systems that are reliable, natural & safe, and cost-efficient as well. This has caused a significant remoteness against prescription medications and high-cost medical procedures, as more people are leaning towards natural alternatives.

Sabinsa has come up with several innovative cosmeceutical products that represent a perfect blend of art and science. A few of ingredients that fulfil specific personal care needs of beauty-seekers include SabiWhite, Saberry, Tetrahydrocurcuminoids (THCs), Cococin, Artonox, PteroWhite, Licorice extract, and Ellagic acid (for skin lightening effect), and Boswellin Super, Sage extract, Sodium Ursolate and Venocin.

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14:30 - 15:00

The Consequences of Non-Preserved Cosmetic Products

The session will take the listener through the risk assessment process for the manufacture and testing of non- preserved Cosmetic Products. We will discuss validation, raw materials, susceptibility and setting specifications. We will also discuss microorganisms of concern to the industry.

Learning Outcomes

  1. Validation requirements when manufacturing non preserved products.
  2. Raw materials
    1. Hostile
    2. Inert
  3. Susceptibility of the product to contamination during manufacture and for the consumer
  4. Guidance on setting Microbial Limits Specifications
  5. Microorganisms of concern to the industry

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  • Angela Davies Managing Director - MSL (Microbiological Solutions Ltd)
14:50 - 15:10

IMCD Presentation

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14:50 - 15:10

Wellness For Beauty: Advancing the Story

Wellness has grown to become a synonym of beauty, as beauty buyers embrace wellness. Consumers understand that skin appearance is also impacted by exposure to daily environment and various aspects of modern lifestyles.  Increasing levels of physical activity, reducing stress levels, minimising the impact of pollution and free radicals, looking after personal wellbeing are considered of vital steps for an effective beauty routine.

The concept of looking and feeling good is drawing closer: notions of de-stress and recharge, creating energy through the experience of an indulging face, body and hair care rituals. Following the successful launch of the "Looking Good Feeling Great" Creative Concept at in-cosmetics Global 2017, Brenntag are expanding the narrative of the Wellness for Beauty story and are developing new formulations to be unveiled at SCS Formulate.

More information on the formulations under the Creative Concept can be found on   http://www.brenntag.com/uk-ireland/en/brenntag-uk-and-ireland/media/wellness-for-beauty-advancing-the-story.jsp

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15:10 - 15:30

Epigenetics

Our body, including the skin and its appearance, is the result of our gene expressions. Epigenetics is the study of the biological mechanisms involved in the regulation of gene activity without altering their sequence. Epigenetic changes happens regular and naturally but can also be influenced by several factors including the age, environmental factors like UV radiation, pollution, the lifestyle, the emotions, some diseases…

Epigenetics opens a new door to ingredients that can influence our skin genes epigenetically . Epigenetics is a new paradigm in the Science of Anti Aging. Via epigenetic mechanisms, genes can be modulated to get involved in regulatory processes such as: Cell cycles, DNA repair systems, Reactions to oxidative stress, Inflammation, Hair growth stimulation, Skin regeneration, etc.

Cobiosa’s R&D continuous research, has developed new assays on the epigenetic action of three of its ingredients: COBIODEFENDER EMR, DRAGON’S BLOOD & GLYCOENERGIZER HAIR

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15:10 - 15:30

Navigating Naturals

Let’s face it: Natural is all the rage. Whether it’s what we eat, what we put on our bodies or what we use in our homes, people everywhere are making a choice to go natural.

But as formulators how can we meet expected natural and ethical regulations ensuring our personal care products are at the level of ‘natural’ that consumers expect? And what certifications are out there?

As part of the Cornelius Inspire programme, Trevor Barker will present ‘Navigating Naturals’ – a guide to several certification bodies including Cosmos, ISO Natural Standard, Halal, Vegan, Nordic Swan, Fair Trade; RSPO and Palm Free.

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  • Trevor Barker Technical Business Development Manager - Cornelius Group Plc
15:30 - 16:00

Stability Testing; Theory into Practice

Stability Testing; a requirement of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, is conducted to verify that a cosmetic/toiletry is safe and maintains an acceptable level of quality throughout the period in which it is to be marketed, from manufacture, transport, storage and use. This presentation shall cover the importance of determining the criteria to be monitored during development, as well as the various conditions employed in order to to determine product stability.

Learning outcomes:

    • Regulation Overview
    • Objectives of Stability Testing
    • Test Protocols
    • Interpretation of results
    • Case Studies

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