15 November – SCS Formulate 2017

Seminar List for 15 November

09:30 - 10:00

Cosmetic Formulators – You are not alone!

An understanding of the critical parameters in a formulation, be they ingredient type, level, or process conditions is critical to the commercial success of a formulated product. In this presentation, Dr David Calvert will outline a design process which can be used in all industries, including cosmetics, resulting in   high performing, consistent and more resilient products.

About iFormulate

iFormulate Ltd provides customised R&D and innovation services in formulation science and technology to companies who develop and produce formulated products, across a range of sectors (e.g. pharmaceuticals, personal care, food, inks, coatings, agrochemicals). Founded by two industry professionals, iFormulate’s combined expertise and experience covers R&D, science, technical service, marketing, regulatory affairs, business strategy, product management, business development and consultancy and it delivers tailor-made solutions to clients.
https://iformulate.biz/

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09:30 - 09:50

Measuring the antioxidant capacity of vegan products and their ingredients with the ABEL-RAC-Vegan™ Antioxidant Test.

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09:50 - 10:10

Activys® where delivery systems become active ingredients

A revolutionary platform for active delivery in any type of skin, but the best system for sensitive skin or for any cosmetic application associated with inflammatory processes. The system is completely natural, marine derived from deep sea algae’s Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids. This provides a flexible structure which allows greater penetration to spread the assets in deep layers of the skin. The first two off the shelf delivery systems we have created are for Anti-Pollution & Anti-Glycation.

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09:50 - 10:10

Solexyl, a novel cosmetic compound for UV protection

UV, and especially UV-B, are extremely noxious for the skin as they can cause DNA damage, inflammation, free radicals production, and cell death. In order to defend itself against these sun rays, skin developed protections such as melanin and urocanic acid. These natural chromophores are capable of absorbing UV and therefore to reduce their damage. However, while absorbing UV they also generate free radicals and may cause skin immuno-suppression.

Here we show how Solexyl, a nature-inspired cosmetic active, is capable of negating the UV-induced skin damage while also preventing the side effects of the skin endogenous protectors.

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10:00 - 10:30

Key Regulatory Updates: Plastic microbeads and Preservatives

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10:10 - 10:30

Discover our new Rheomer® Low pH designed to meet consumer needs for transparent rinse off products.

Sensory (aesthetics, product texture...) keeps growing as a differentiating attribute. Following the massive shift to preservation with organic acids, many rheological ingredients — essential to sensory — have become inadequate, giving rise to new formulation challenges. Concurrently, skin types with specific needs (such as sensitive, dry, eczema-prone, or oily/acne-prone or simply ageing) are on the rise, and require acidic pH treatments with pleasing textures. Solvay presents this new rheological agent that performs in acidic pH : Rheomer® Low pH.

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10:10 - 10:30

Targeting beauty trends with innovative solutions

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11:30 - 12:30

Cancer and Hair Loss

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11:30 - 11:50

Compelling Silicone Film Formers for Various Personal Care Applications.

Silicone resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicate and acrylates/dimethicone copolymer can be blended with various silicone and non-silicone carriers to modify their properties to make them a perfect fit for specific personal care applications. This presentation will cover the features and benefits of Innospec’s silicone film formers and silicone film former blends for applications in a wide range of product types. It will feature Specsil K-80 which is a novel trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethcone blend which forms clear, smooth flexible films having no stress cracks and excellent resistance to rub-off, water and sebum.

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11:30 - 11:50

Hair Necessities & Launches from Croda

Our hair is a powerful medium for expressing our individuality and, as a result, we often inadvertently torture it to achieve the perfect ‘look’. With everything from bleaching and colouring to even everyday combing and styling imparting damage onto the hair fibre, it is necessary to provide protection to ensure that a short-term look doesn’t have longer-term implications. Join Croda as we explore our latest innovations in hair care, exploring novel ways to protect and repair hair damage.

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11:50 - 12:10

New insights into collagens: Fibre collagen I and physiologically active collagen XVIII

Fibroblasts synthesize numerous important dermal building blocks such as the large structuring components hyaluronic acid, elastic fibres and collagens. Especially the versatile collagens play a key role in skin physiology. Meanwhile, consumers are well familiar with the term “collagen” that has positive connotations, and they realised that there is not one kind of collagen in the skin only.

Due to its high share in the dermis, collagen I takes on a special position. Stimulating the synthesis can contribute to an increase of firmness and help to slow down skin aging. Dermagenist™ supports each of the four major steps in the synthesis of collagen I, including both intra- and extracellular processes. The final formation stage involves the enzyme LOXL1, responsible of the assembly of precursor molecules to long fibres. BASF Beauty Creations found out that the release of LOXL1 is impacted by an epigenetic mechanism. Dermagenist™, a Cosmos-approved marjoram extract rich in vicenin and luteolin-7-0-glucuronide, strongly stimulates the investigated synthesis steps. As result, Dermagenist™ increases skin density as well as skin firmness.

Besides collagens that play a pure mechanical role, there are also forms that additionally participate in physiological processes. Among them, collagen XVIII is unique: it is the only collagenous proteoglycan with biological activity that is present in all skin layers. BASF Beauty Creations discovered that Collagen XVIII is decreasing with age. Collalift™18 stimulates the production of this specific substance, both in the dermal-epidermal junction and in the basement membrane of adipocytes. Clinical studies demonstrated an increase of skin elasticity, an improvement of the skin homogeneity and a reduction of wrinkles. Collalift™18 is a Cosmos-approved extract from the bark of African Mahogany, sourced in Burkina Faso under monitored conditions.

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12:10 - 12:30

Beauty Evolution-Staying ahead of Curve

Navigating the beauty section in your favorite store or clicking through the latest product launches is a daunting task as a consumer.  Today’s beauty offering is huge and capturing the consumer is a difficult task.  We will explore the next generation technologies available and in development that will shape the future of beauty.

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12:10 - 12:30

PolyAquol™ – technology for natural and efficient emulsions

Through years of research, Innovacos has developed an expertise in polyglycerol technology.  This knowhow led to a new generation of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers known as PolyAquol™.

The first member of the PolyAquol™ family, PolyAquol™-2W, is a patent pending O/W self-emulsifier.  PolyAquol™-2W possesses a wide range of formulation compatibility while providing a unique skin feel to emulsions.  On a more functional level, PolyAquol™-2W can generate highly organized liquid crystals important to provide stability to the emulsion and to ensure compatibility with the skin.  Clinically, PolyAquol™-2W was shown to prevent and repair damage caused to the skin barrier function by UV exposure.

PolyAquol™-OS2 is the second member of the PolyAquol™ line.  PolyAquol™-OS2 can generate W/O emulsions endowed with a very light texture and skin feel.  Its  molecular arrangement provides strong emulsifying properties without the need of co-emulsifiers and it can advantageously be used also for cold-processed emulsions.  It is perfectly suited for sunscreen and makeup formulations containing powders and pigments.

Both, PolyAquol™-2W and PolyAquol™-OS2 emulsifiers are all naturally derived with Ecocert and Cosmos approvals.

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14:00 - 14:30

The Microbiome

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14:30 - 14:50

Eosidin™: Controlling atopic-prone skin conditions caused by indoor pollution

Your home is surrounded by indoor pollution which triggers irritation process and leads to atopic-prone skin conditions. People are subjected to two to five times more contaminants indoor than outdoor.

Eosidin™ is the first active ingredient targeting indoor pollution, and tackling skin immuno-modulation to avoid atopic-prone skin conditions and hypersensitivity. Eosidin™ is a well characterized extract of unripe citrus unshiu, coming from the wonderful and protected reserve of Jeju Island in Korea.

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14:30 - 14:50

Skin Secrets from Asia

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14:30 - 15:00

The consequences of non-preserved cosmetic products

14:50 - 15:10

IMCD Presentation

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14:50 - 15:10

Wellness For Beauty: Advancing the Story

Wellness has grown to become a synonym of beauty, as beauty buyers embrace wellness. Consumers understand that skin appearance is also impacted by exposure to daily environment and various aspects of modern lifestyles.  Increasing levels of physical activity, reducing stress levels, minimising the impact of pollution and free radicals, looking after personal wellbeing are considered of vital steps for an effective beauty routine.

The concept of looking and feeling good is drawing closer: notions of de-stress and recharge, creating energy through the experience of an indulging face, body and hair care rituals. Following the successful launch of the "Looking Good Feeling Great" Creative Concept at in-cosmetics Global 2017, Brenntag are expanding the narrative of the Wellness for Beauty story and are developing new formulations to be unveiled at SCS Formulate.

More information on the formulations under the Creative Concept can be found on   http://www.brenntag.com/uk-ireland/en/brenntag-uk-and-ireland/media/wellness-for-beauty-advancing-the-story.jsp

14:50 - 15:10

Wellness For Beauty: Advancing the Story

Wellness has grown to become a synonym of beauty, as beauty buyers embrace wellness. Consumers understand that skin appearance is also impacted by exposure to daily environment and various aspects of modern lifestyles.  Increasing levels of physical activity, reducing stress levels, minimising the impact of pollution and free radicals, looking after personal wellbeing are considered of vital steps for an effective beauty routine.

The concept of looking and feeling good is drawing closer: notions of de-stress and recharge, creating energy through the experience of an indulging face, body and hair care rituals. Following the successful launch of the "Looking Good Feeling Great" Creative Concept at in-cosmetics Global 2017, Brenntag are expanding the narrative of the Wellness for Beauty story and are developing new formulations to be unveiled at SCS Formulate.

More information on the formulations under the Creative Concept can be found on   http://www.brenntag.com/uk-ireland/en/brenntag-uk-and-ireland/media/wellness-for-beauty-advancing-the-story.jsp

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15:10 - 15:30

Epigenetics

Our body, including the skin and its appearance, is the result of our gene expressions. Epigenetics is the study of the biological mechanisms involved in the regulation of gene activity without altering their sequence. Epigenetic changes happens regular and naturally but can also be influenced by several factors including the age, environmental factors like UV radiation, pollution, the lifestyle, the emotions, some diseases…

Epigenetics opens a new door to ingredients that can influence our skin genes epigenetically . Epigenetics is a new paradigm in the Science of Anti Aging. Via epigenetic mechanisms, genes can be modulated to get involved in regulatory processes such as: Cell cycles, DNA repair systems, Reactions to oxidative stress, Inflammation, Hair growth stimulation, Skin regeneration, etc.

Cobiosa’s R&D continuous research, has developed new assays on the epigenetic action of three of its ingredients: COBIODEFENDER EMR, DRAGON’S BLOOD & GLYCOENERGIZER HAIR

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15:10 - 15:30

Navigating Naturals

Let’s face it: Natural is all the rage. Whether it’s what we eat, what we put on our bodies or what we use in our homes, people everywhere are making a choice to go natural.

But as formulators how can we meet expected natural and ethical regulations ensuring our personal care products are at the level of ‘natural’ that consumers expect? And what certifications are out there?

As part of the Cornelius Inspire programme, Trevor Barker will present ‘Navigating Naturals’ – a guide to several certification bodies including Cosmos, ISO Natural Standard, Halal, Vegan, Nordic Swan, Fair Trade; RSPO and Palm Free.

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  • Trevor Barker Technical Business Development Manager - Cornelius Group Plc
15:30 - 16:00

Stability Testing; Theory into Practice

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