18 November 2009: 15.30-16.30

How to... moisturise the skin in a novel way
- a detective story

Johann Wiechers, JW Solutions

Being novel and original in cosmetic science is not easy. Especially not if the subject is as common as skin moisturisation!

Via a series of different techniques (near infrared spectroscopy, cryo-scanning electron microscopy, small and wide angle x-ray diffraction and attenuated total reflectance Fourier-transformed infrared), I will illustrate a novel mechanism of skin moisturization, namely that of stabilization of the orthorhombic phase of the skin lipids, causing an internal occlusion. It will be shown that by improving the barrier function of the skin we help to improve the underlying cause of many age-related phenomena and break the 'dry skin cycle'. But the big advantage of this 'internal occlusion' mechanism over the two existing mechanisms of occlusion and humectancy is that the skin feel of emollients operating via this mechanism is on average much better than that of glycerine and mineral oil.

Learning outcomes:
• There is more to skin moisturisation than occlusion and humectancy
• Emollients like isopropyl isostearate and isostearyl isostearate act by stabilisation of the orthorhombic packing of skin lipids
• These moisturisers need to penetrate into the skin lipids to be active
• Stabilisation of this phase is at the basis of good skin care
• Despite that, there are still unknowns in skin moisturisation such as the influence of sex hormones
• Science is fun!