Modern Trends in Emulsifiers

John Woodruff, Creative Developments (Cosmetics) Ltd

Emulsions are a fundamental product form for many cosmetic categories and these are made possible by careful selection of the optimum emulsifier system.

Cosmetic science has progressed a long way from the early beeswax-borax and, triethanolamine-stearate combinations and there is now a trend towards those that form liquid crystal structures and emulsifiers that are acceptable when making certified natural cosmetics.

This presentation gives a brief introduction to emulsifier types then explores many of the more recent introductions that satisfy today’s demands for stable emulsions with particular properties.

Keywords: Emulsions, emulsifiers, liquid crystals, natural cosmetics, phase inversion technology (PIT)

Learning Outcomes:

• Chemical classes of emulsifiers
• Liquid crystal structures
• Natural emulsifiers
• Phase inversion technology (PIT)
• Emulsification of silicone compounds
• Multiple emulsions

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Evidence Based Cosmetics: Old Hat or New Trend?

Karl Lintner, Kal Õidees

Much has been written about the emerging market of "cosmeceuticals", but nobody can really define this category, as no distinction is possible between "active" ingredients or products and "inert" excipients.  Wrinkle reduction and moisture regulation and tissue nourishing have been claimed for ages. And with the methods available at the time, some evidence for these claims was indeed presented.

So what is new in the trend to "Evidence Based Cosmetics"?

We observe indeed a desire and a need to increase the scientific understanding of cosmetic products and their ingredients interacting with human tissue (skin, hair, mucous membranes).

We'll define an EBC product as one where claims of activity/efficacy are based on truly scientific research data that should include (in addition to obligatory safety data):

• bibliographical data
• an understanding of in vitro mechanisms of some or all the ingredients and their possible interactions
• some well conducted clinical trials on sufficiently large panels
• and statistical analysis of the results.

Keywords: cosmeceuticals, claim substantiation, cosmetic activity, legal and marketing aspects

Learning Outcomes:

• What is cosmetic evidence?
• How not to get trapped between marketing claims and pharma-like approaches to cosmetic science;
• How to document strong claims...
• in vitro vs. in vivo (clinical) claims
• New rules for advertising in France

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Beauty and Personal Care: State of the Industry 2010

Yariella Coello, Euromonitor International

The seminar will provide a brief overview of the state of the beauty and personal care industry at the global and local level. Though the industry has experienced a decline in premium cosmetics, ‘masstige’ luxury is booming, basic goods have remained resilient and sun and skin care have become new pockets for growth. The seminar will examine the key drivers behind these major shifts and consider both short and long term market trends.

It will then examine how manufacturers are adapting to the changing face of the industry and look at what these changes mean for ingredients. It will consider the territories and sectors set to drive growth and highlight potential opportunities for ingredients suppliers and formulators.

Learning Outcomes:

• An awareness of the short and long term trends for the beauty industry
• An understanding of the key drivers behind shifting consumer patterns
• An understanding of how companies are responding to new market conditions
• An appreciation of the potential opportunities for ingredients suppliers and formulators

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Actives

Tony Dweck, Dweck Data

Learning Outcomes:

This is a brand new lecture that has never been given before and will deal with the topic of natural actives. We will look at the relatively new market that has slowly been developing as an adjunct to the blossoming natural's raw material market. If your memory of the actives list starts to slow after allantoin and bisabolol then this review will come as enlightenment as we share the benefits of around 50 functional phytochemicals.

These actives provide natural colour, natural preservation, anti-erythemic properties, anti-pruritic activity, cooling, warming, soothing, anti-inflammatory, affect cellular turnover and influence cell apoptosis and so much more.

• The chemical structure will be discussed.
• The function will be discussed.
• The occurrence of the active in plant species will be discussed in relationship to the functional benefits of those plants.
• The commercial source of these materials will be revealed.
• Another string will be added to the natural's bow.

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The Role of Colour and Fragrance in Creating Emotional Promise and in Driving Perceived Functional Benefit Within Personal Care

Dr Pippa Bailey, MMR Research Worldwide Ltd

In an increasingly competitive marketplace, where good products are the norm, there is a need to deliver and own emotional and functional benefits (perceived and actual) more clearly than competitors in order to win & secure market share. This is the case in personal care more so than in any other fmcg category.

When we encounter products we go to our memory and we compare what’s coming in with what’s already stored there. Through this process, we come to recognise what things are. This process of determining what something is – is called perception.

We also attach meaning to this sensory input, again based on previous experiences held in the memory, e.g. coconut means moisturising and enriching - coconut means tropical - coconut means natural. The attached meaning helps us create rules to allow us to make sense of the world around us. This process is known as conceptualisation.

Some of what we conceptualise about an object will have functional connotations e.g. it is creamy (perception) it will be gentle and protect my hair from sun damage (functional benefit). In the same way some of what we conceptualise will have emotional connotations e.g. it smells exotic (perception) it will make me feel calm, free and happy (emotional promise).

This presentation will use 3 case studies to demonstrate the ability of colour and fragrance to create emotional promise and to drive perceived functional benefits in the shampoo and skin care categories. The studies use a novel research technique designed to uncover these often deep rooted conceptualisation which are central to governing choice behaviour.

The presentation will ...

• demonstrate an approach for understanding the ability of fragrance to reinforce functionality on one sense (touch) through another sense (smell) within the shampoo category
• illustrate the role of expectations set up by brand and the role of emotional & functional consonance/dissonance
• look at the role of colour and fragrance in functional and emotional conceptualisations within the skin care category

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The morning seminars A - C are 30 minutes in length. They cost:

£25 + VAT per seminar (£29.38 inc VAT)
£60 + VAT for all three morning seminars ((£70.50 inc VAT)

The afternoon seminars D & E are more in-depth and are 1 hour in length. They cost:

£80 + VAT per seminar (£94.00 inc VAT)